who here has been surfing this week?

Carson , the midnight crowd was alive and well at Malibu with this swell. You folks definitely had a great looking pump.

 

like this?

 

Damn dude sorry to hear that. I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago. I posted the story somewhere. Dude was lucky my wife was with me. I can handle being f'ed with after I surf, but if I havn't got wet yet, i'm on a hair trigger.

 

I think ol' Carson is on the left coast

 

Sometimes I wish I lived on the West Coast

 

Uhhh....what?

 

with the rain here to stay, it was looking very clean early AM. I decided to wait it out til hi tide and take a stab at it at the Washout. Crowds galore over there, was a bit surprising. I went past them to the north, thi hi's mostly with a couple waist ones sneaking thru. 5 min after putting in, semi chopped up. I was only in briefly but got over a handful of ones to keep my mind in ease on the LB

 

West coast is on fire. SSW is now joined by a building NW swell. Waves...waves everywhere.

<insert Buzz Lightyear meme here that I'm too lazy to make>

 

Small, sloppy, onshore crap today.

So I bodysurfed...

 

Shore lb special here this evening. Everyone said it was closing out...I said you just have to surf faster. Anyway until I the find out of my 6'8 and got wrecked a few times but made a few also

 

I've paddled out a number of times over the past week. Wouldn't call any of it surfing. Micro-grovelling and getting some exercise. Perhaps Saturday evening will yield a decent wave.

 

i've really contemplated getting a good sized bodyboard. I don't know dck about which models are better than others, but it's prolly the summer surf that's got me itchin for sumtin new to do. Imma keep a look out

 

getting a lil bigger here on Folly. More waist hi's were peeking thru. Had my fancy footwork going on the LB. Nice peelers, longer lines even with the softest push from mother ocean, get ya 50 yrds down n bout. Promising tomorrow, maybe shorten up the board if so. Saw a guy making a run for it on the road- nice shorty fish in hand, storm clouds were lingering in, but he ran like a duck. Can't remember last time i seen that kinda running

 

NW was dominant today. I thought it was summer. Chest high+ on sets with no, to light offshore breeze. Super fun day.

 

where's my invitation!!!

 

Hey Carson. I'm coming out to San Jose in August. I don't know if you're anywhere near there but if you are it would be cool to share a sesh with ya

 

That might be tough...

 

can I please watch and wax in peace?

 

Scored some after-work waves yesterday. Waves were about 50% bigger than I expected, which is awesome, but I was on my big log with no leash which made things interesting.

Caught a ton of waves and got some nose-time so it was a success even if I had to swim for my board a few times. Hoping for a repeat tonight.

 

That's a long paddle