who here has been surfing this week?

Probably should go with the longboard.

 

Paddled out last night after work. Worked my ass off in crowded big garbage conditions. Got one semi-decent wave. Big rainbow in the sky. Wind switched. Surf went to pooo. Ended up paddling in without riding a second wave. This morning conditions look uninspiring here but an hour and a half drive north its firing but mobbed. Think I'll do my taxes instead.

 

Doesn't look that crowded, there's only like 120 people out in this one super secret spot! LMAO

 

Stomach hi semi chop action dead at hi tide. Thought I'd miss it with wind approaching but was able to get a few good ones on the longer fish. Expectations are higher tomorrow early afternoon on Folly. Hopefully shorty approved

 

Looks really good this morning and super crowded. Feeling unmotivated and sore this morning. Just looking at the crowd is a total buzzkill. Will wait until this evening when the guards leave and hopefully a lot of these people will go back where they came from.

 

West coast has gone flat.

 

You have had some good t looking swells Carson . We get those windows where the tide and winds dictate the quality .

 

Today was one of those days , buoys were 3 ft at 9 seconds. Solid overhead sets , warm water and 15 mph offshores . 75 of my best friends to make a perfect day .

 

that's one of my fav photos I seen on here. Glad u scored

 

Shorty approved. Crowded yes but dammit if they get dem over me. Washout w a bruv n a couple tag alongs latr. 3 sessions. First ride on the lip of my 6'9 Greg loehr boart thru the first section, switched up changed course n took it to my backside to shore. Handful of great rides on 1st sess. Chest hi. Brought out the new toy, 6'3 alchemist on 2nd sess. Less desirable waves but Stoke was still on, nothing memorable. 3rd sess w a tag along, brought back the loehr. Flew fast on one, didn't think it could've been tbh, at least on dat ol skool boart, but brought back memmries of my fastest ride eva at Hermosa CR where I split my shorts. After a handful, my last ride was a floater on a shoulder hi drop. Wipeout? Ya betcha sweet arse. I'm the ricky bobby of drifting down the line fyi. Burnt forehead, ready to roll tomorrow early afternoon

 

Got up early to get to the beach before the lot filled up. Water warm enough for board shorts and rash guard. Waves big and disorganized but still fun. Forgot how much more tiring it is to paddle around in hope instead of clean waves. Eastern RI looked better on the cams but eh, don't have a parking pass for over there and Pt. J was probably a madhouse.

 

Surfed for two hours before dark. Found a spot all to myself with a chest high wave coming in every few minutes. Getting new board dialed. On a sad note they were doing a water search for an apparent drowning victim nearby. There was a drowning in Ventnor this weekend too.

 

Got it good Saturday morning before the south wind came up... then scored perfect firing waves yesterday all day. So freakin' good... couldn't help but surf myself into a state of total exhaustion. Went home, took two Advil and a nap.

 

https://6abc.com/search-underway-fo...PlaHvmfHbptUAO32kBL0uijxtLrI8C92KWJogGyAYJors

 

You're right. I can't complain. It was good for quite a while. This should be just a brief respite before the South Pacific wave machine gets cranked up again. It will give me some more time to pine for my new custom boart that's currently being shaped...

 

Whew buddy, what a weekend.

Started on Thursday evening, which I can hardly remember at this point. I did run into one of my old college professors in the lineup, which was cool. Longboard, lots of waves, surfed til dark.

Friday evening, very similar conditions, but cleaner. Dropped into a few that were so glassy where the sunset glare hit just right and it totally whited out my vision. Sorry to that family in the shorebreak! (don't worry I just gave them a scare)

Saturday was clean in the AM, a little bigger, but still not enough power for a fish (in my opinion). I ended up doing a early session run to the van to switch boards. Good choice I think.

Sunday's swell had been on the forecast for a week so I drove north to a less crowded spot. Just the wife and I and clean waist to chest high waves all morning. So many waves. A few little tubes and noserides stick out but the rest is a blur of surf induced zen. Solid weekend.

 

buddy bailed on washout, went out before the two of us, said it was crowded and took it to 10th E. During my lunch hour, i see it's as disorganized as it was by the pier all day. I paddled out regardless on the 6'3 alchemist, got one stomach hi ride and got the h out of the der. That guy had his wife and 7yr old kid in tow, both who can't surf diddly sht but cmon don't tell the two guys on their lunch break to go over there. Saw my buddy on the beach, told him to pack it up and get to 13th before the washout. Not crowded, but the conditions were bumpy as all hell. it was disorganized stomach to chest vs bumpy shoulder to head hi and i was down for the latter, as was my buddy. Had a few good rides, left and right, with a few cuts and almost a couple with big drop ins. All in all, it was good to have some. My buddy said he was gonna take his "last ride" in, he had a screamer to the left. So i waited for the set behind, and as i was about to drop in there's my bud paddling straight at me. Kook of the moment kinda stuff there, and i told him about it too. He said something along the lines of that one was so good that I... I ignored his ass after that

 

Some of the most fun and rippable waves in a long long time right at the end of my street. The crowds were elsewhere.Two weeks from now this break will be buried under mountains of sand not to emerge again for a couple of years. My youngest son powering through a cutback and my daughter hitting the lip in nearly the exact spot I first stood up on a surfboard in July of 1982.

 

Tragic... 24 years old. Inlanders need water wings.