who here has been surfing this week?

Fun surf around low yesterday... up to chest high on set, but sideshorey and crumbly. But still lining up with these great rights just running down the beach. A few lefts, but the rights were great. Some dude I never saw before was absolutely KILLING it on a fish. Most everybody else... including me... had longboards or soft tops, not expecting much. But it really turned on for a few hours.

Spearfished in the morning at high tide... viz was only about two feet, but I went anyway... opening day for tog. Saw only small fish. My guess is the keepers could see me before I saw them and hid. Oh well... I'll get 'em next time.

 

Thanks for sharing this story with so much color. Felt like I was there.

 

I probably should've been more clear. Click that link, Go to Collections--> Sun & Surf. Buncha old and new pics, just stuff that I haven't seen. Got my interest for about 15 minutes looking over them

 

Isaias produced all weekend. Saturday I went north to my favorite free-parking un-crowded spot. I call this particular spot "watermelons" because there's 2 little beach cottages; one pink and one lime green. Just the wife and I for 3 hours in some nice sized surf. Mellow takeoffs, picking up speed the whole way in. The way the waves were breaking, the cloudy skies, and the murky water reminded me of small days at Playa Guiones, Costa Rica. Man, I'm itching to take a trip. Even just to Cali. ******* pandemic.

Sunday I stayed closer to home. Solid swell but very longboard friendly. Surfed until I couldn't lift my arms.

Side note: They just raised parking at my local spot to $5 on hour. A little more and I'll be paying minimum wage just to park there.

 

Fun south swell today in the waist to belly high range... occasional chest... with light offshores until this afternoon. Water got COLD though. Took the fish out for the bottom half of the outgoing, and had it all to me-self. Felt really loose and dialed in... just one of those sessions where everything was clicking. Best wave was a nice, 3-turn frontside runner with a big hack at the end. Felt good to be able to do some full-force turns... been a while. I got out of the water and some guy was like... "DUDE! YOU WERE SHREDDING OUT THERE! THAT WAS CRAZY!" Can't remember the last time that happened... lol!

 

I got to do a full rail to tail turn on my shortboard two days ago. It’s been terrible in San Diego except for that one run of swell. After 62 days of not surfing because of the foot injury,I got an unexpected session of really fun waves.

Took out the 5’10 Puddle jumper and had a Peak to myself for an hour and a half. Felt good to get some quality waves. Wind was light, Sets were consistent enough not to make you think how long your last wave was.

 

Today???

 

Nah, Saturday evening.
Forecast looks like we’re gonna have some fun for the rest of August

 

ahh..

Yeah, little bump tomorrow, but then next week looks to pick up real nice.

 

I really wish you would surf every day so I can read your recaps.

 

Isle of Palms just got rid of their free parking. Folly has been in a habit of following their ideas since pandemic, which is weird cuz tourists/ppl that go to IOP don't come to Folly unless it's a good storm surf sess. Parking on Folly is still brutal, one street for free parking unless you're a FB resident, then it's $150 tix being handed out. Just american greed, can't put the blame on the pandemic for assonine parking prices

 

oh yea, 4 of us went out to the end of E. Arctic Ave (free parking street) cuz i didn't want to drive. Walk to Washout from there for an evening sess. Bumpy but waves were manageable. Think we all got some goods. Boards ranged from a 5'6 puddle jumper to a 9'4 LB. Not a lotta ppl out there so we weren't getting looks with our board variety. That seemed to be it tho for us. It was weak n chop this morning, got wet for a couple but yesterday evening there were some decent rides. So in conclusion, waves the day before and day after of Isaias. Hope yall up north stay safe and shred some

 

I still can't pronounce it correctly but Isaias turned out to be a major winner.

Monday night the storm came thru: She came ashore just south of me with 80-mph sustained winds. We just missed the eye and ended up grinding thru the eye-wall on the eastern side. Yard looks like someone dumped a truckload of leaf clippings and sticks but no major damage at all.

Then there was the after-swell. We woke up Tuesday morning with no power, no internet, and cell phone internet was too slow to use. I got the surf report via text from a friend on the island. We were in the van, on the way to the beach 15 minutes later. Traffic lights out all the way to the beach. In this town people can't drive for **** even on a good day, so it was a bit sketchy navigating the 4 way stops.

Fortunately for me, when folks see 3 tons of vintage steel heading their way they tend to make way.

The surf was simply perfect (by local standards), and the weather was on point as well. Usually after a storm I catch some blown out crumbs but not today. It was chest high+ all morning, light offshores, and bright sun. It was one of those days where I get so zenned out that by the time I make it out to the lineup after the wave I have completely forgotten the wave I just rode. I finally got some good down-the-line-waves to noseride, and some super memorable hacks as well. I was doing things I didn't know I was capable of.

To top it all off, after the sesh I ran into my old college prof again. He told he saw me catch some bombs and that I had great style on the longboard (!!!!). This meant so much to me coming from a local surf elder and someone I have loads of respect for. I was over the moon.

 

Solid hack!

 

SCHWAAA

 

Went down for an after work session yesterday evening. The wind was blowing straight on shore about 6-8 mph, making it look not so appealing after the last week of awesome, but went for it anyway. After a stretch of good waves it's so easy to get lazy about surfing the less-than-perfect stuff.

To my surprise it ended up being really fun. Long lines that looked like they were going to close out but stayed open for a turn or two, or a little cover-up.

Surfed until the tide swallowed up the little wave and head home. I only have am/fm in the van, not even a cassette player, so I normally tune into the "jammin' oldies" station. To my delight they played some P-Funk and some Teena Marie. We surfed almost every day over the last 3 weeks and food stocks are running low. Managed to scrape together a gourmet meal: veggie burgers topped with bacon, and a tofu, tortellini, frozen peas, artichoke heart, and feta salad. It was actually pretty good. Washed it down with a pineapple Truly which was pretty not good. Ended the night falling asleep on the couch with my cat watching and old episode of "River Monsters". This last paragraph is inspired by @Peajay4060