who here has been surfing this week?

yea, feel like i've been posting a good bit. They're might be a shot of swell this wknd, but prolly nothing til Sept - hence me not posting for a while

 

I was going to ask the same thing, but then I remembered: no swell = nothing to post about. I'm in the same boat unfortunately. It's been a summer for the history books as far as swell goes so I'm thankful for that.

 

Like you pointed out - the tale of two coasts! If you can handle the East Coast gnar and choppe, the long period Pacific is a piece of cake (except Mavs and Puerto Escondido). We know how to get in early with a quick pop up, the rest is butter.

 

Get some popcorn and enjoy the intermission. Act Two is on its way in a couple weeks.

 

Surfer photog I knew from way back gave me a call recently . He moved into the Mav s area for the last 20 yrs , had him send me his favorite shots .

 

Zach Wormat on the bottom , he made it to bottom .Peter Mel on a tow in beast.

 

Man! I wanted to say just that but I view myself as intermediate here in florida but way beyond that when I travel! Well said

 

This has been my experience too.

 

New board, new swell. My wife bought me a custom made Sauritch Retro Fish for my birthday in July. I picked it up on Monday. 5' 6" x 20 1/2" x 2 3/8" @ 29.6L. Got some rad Keel Fins from Capt. Fin for it. Waxed it up yesterday so I was ready go for dawn patrol today.

Met a buddy of mine that was down from Orange County. We padded out in Oside between the pier and the harbor. Little swamped from the high tide, but the SW swell was pushing through pretty well. It was about waist high, chest to head on the sets and glassy. No wind to speak of.

I learned some things about this board today.

1. It's fast. I had one drop in where I got hung up in the foam at the top. Pushed over it thinking "I'll never make that section" and then, I made the section. Zoom!!
2. It duck dives like a dream! Deep and easy. TWSS
3. It does NOT turn like my thrusters. I had a couple of waves where I was like "I'm turning, I'm turning, I'm not turning." and I would fall.
4. Feet MUST be in the right place right after pop up. I tried to adjust a couple times and when I only had one foot on the board, even for a split second, it got all bar of soapy and would squirt right out from under me.

Overall, I think it's going to be super fun, but it's going to take some time to dial it in.

https://captainfin.com/collections/twin-fins/products/christenson-keel-especial-st-black-white
https://www.sauritchsurfboards.com/surfboards/fish/retro-fish.html

After surfing, cruised home and got a cup of fresh roasted coffee and got right to work. No fancy food.

 

Hang on to your wife brah! She's a keeper. You can always get a new board.

 

Waist to stomach and clean. Took out the new fish. Had one good wave where I really got the feel for the fish, rocking it gently from rail to rail and feeling the speed. Super fun.

Came home and pulled a double espresso and prepped for brunch. Bacon, bell pepper, red onion and tomato omelet (proper, all the ingredients INSIDE not scrambled in) with mexi cheese. Split the four egg monster with my bride.

 

love it

 

LB luck has it, yesterday morning and and evening session. Morning was w a bud, drifted right thru Washout in 45 min. It was stomach +, had some long rides, a lot of them going right over the rocks on hi tide. Yesterday evening was with the roomies. A lil less size but still sumtin to ride. Drift wasn't dat bad den, and all we scored some waves which made it all that sweet. Not a bad way to end the wknd

 

Awesome! Keep me posted and hit me with any questions you have.

 

All legit, Carson. You definitely have a quick feel for board design.

All the things you mentioned are exactly why (well... at least part of the reason why) I ride fishes more than any other board in my quiver. I took one out yesterday in some chest high mushburgers that were lining up nicely and had one of the best sessions in weeks. One thing a lot of people say is that twin fin fish spin out easily. I could not disagree with that statement more. They do NOT spin out easily... in fact, I can do full force turns at speed without spinning out by digging that big ol' keel fin in deep and using a lot of RAIL. The trick is... and you pointed it out... foot placement. Correct foot placement along with weight distribution makes riding a fish like no other board. Literally incomparable.

 

10 yrs ago today , Earl super sized NJ

 

Fun session yesterday, waist high soft, wonky waves. Heavy fog made it almost glassy. Almost no crowd, unreal. Most rides were short for the spot, but had a couple where the sections connected nicely and took the waves right into the rocks. I know I should be pulling out at a certain point, but the wave reforms in the shallow boulder area and I cant help milking it to the very end, and my boards show the folly of this decision. But I always come out ok.
Its been a crazy summer, I pulled the trigger on buying a house here in town, a completely delapidated piece of crap, but all I could afford in this coastal area. Pulled my first permit in April, and hopefully will pass the last 2 inspections next week. I was so enthusiastic and motivated at first, and by the 4th of July was pulling the hair out of my head. Some of the contractors I hired were real douche bags, they caused more stress and cost me money and time I couldn't afford. This had me in a funk for most of the summer. No surfing, no days off, just 14 hour days with no end in sight.
Well, the end is here. Yesterdays session was the first in a long time, and once again a reminder of how important surfing is in my life. When Im not in the water, things build up. I think surfing is like hitting the reset button, I feel so much clearer afterwards.
Anyhow, glad to see everyone getting some. The season is here on the EC. I really am looking forward to cane season, not just to surf but to get back into taking photos and vids. I had been enjoying my new camera earlier this year, want to get back into that as well

 

I find my Higher Power in the water.Your comments about importance of surfing on your psyche really resonated with me.