who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    small bump down here on Folly today. Took to it with the LB at sunrise. Lotta surfers in the water already, bout 6 ppl by my side of the pier. must be a holiday wknd. They were about thi hi, but some nice curls - short drives. Worked for an hour, and went out to Washout to catch the hi tide rise. Found most of the block to myself and was able to get another handful of some decent ones. Did get a gnarly jellyfish tattoo from my left shoulder to the waist. I told that mean ocean! (Wedding Crashers reference) I might rock a shirt if i get paddle back in this wknd
     
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  2. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey
    Hey Hey,

    Been a small wave paradise round here after Omar. I missed Thursday. Got in with my son on Friday evening. Waist high and clean with enough tide in it to give the boy easy rides on his new board. Went back with the whole fam Saturday to catch the rest of it and everyone paddled out at some point. We were all in the water from sun up to noon. Small fun waves in warm water that anyone can enjoy. Finished up and went home to mow the lawn and BBQ some chicken. Cooked it slow and low for 2 hours. Corn and black bean salad and some collards on the side. Yeah buddy.

    A new swell showed today. Waist high again and clean. A hundred yard runs each time. Surfed the Longboard for hours. Not nose riding so much as just surfing off the tail. Fade into it and crank a turn into the glassy goodness. Drop knee turn back and let it stand up again and go for it again and again. Got out to cast out to the bunker but caught nothing but a plastic bag despite those Albies ripping through the Pods. Heading back out before dark for another go. Surf with the boy than fish till dark. Never caught one from shore. Got a be a trip.

    Looks like more swell on the way soon.
     
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  3. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    All weekend...i went early I went late I went often but not great. Saw 3 busted green softies by wavestorm
     
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  4. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    My local was so much fun yesterday. Buoy said 3.3' @ 8.3sec out of the ESE. Translation... solid chest high A frames! Wind was light sideshore out of the S, so it wasn't hollow... just ripable and clean. Water was crystal clear... amazingly, considering the swell.

    Felt like PR on a fun-sized day.
     
  5. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Surfed closeout waist to chest beachbreak the last 2 days, super fun because I had my kid. She is 11 now, I sent her to surf camp with mixed results this year. She ate it bad on a wave, hit bottom and got a bloody nose, and is now gun shy. So I was happy she wanted to be pushed into closeouts. She was a little afraid to pop up, knee rode most rides, but was stoked. (She was also a little scared about a regular, hard fiberglass board as compared to the soft tops at camp.) I had to angle into the waves to try to get anything more than a one second ride, got a little shoulder here and there for a turn, all rides ended in inches of water, and my kid was hooting and hollering for me like it was 10 ft pipe, running up for high fives and hugs, definitely the best session of the year.
    Afterwards we pan fried steak tips in butter, a couple of sweet potatos, corn on the cob, and fresh Italian bread. A couple of ice cold apple juices to wash it down and then some cartoon network to end the night yesterday, I love hanging out with my kid.
     
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  6. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    596
    May 19, 2006
    This is great. I could never get my daughter past knee deep and my son didn't want anything to do with the beach. Now I have another shot with my step kids, but the boy (12) would rather die than go outside and the girl (7) is afraid to learn how to swim. :( I think I am going to have to go to Adopt A Grom or something.
     
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  7. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    596
    May 19, 2006
    SW swell in the water the past couple of days. Little bit funky on the low tide, but slightly broken up by some NW wind swell. Had a couple decent waves today, yesterday I went to the wrong spot. I was pissed off at my wife and just wanted to get wet and not deal with the butt heads at the SW swell spot. We kissed and made up, so I went to the right place today. :D

    Came home to an ant invasion in the pantry. We have been waging this war for a couple of days now. I beat them back on the northern and western flanks yesterday and then went behind enemy lines (outside trash can) and wiped out and entire brigade. They are crafty and persistent though. I may have to call in the allies for an air strike or something.

    Had some cottage cheese with granola for breakfast before starting my work day.
     
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  8. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Adopt A Grom, lol! I'm not sure if wavesliding is going to be a pusuit my kid will take up but am happy for any time she still wants to spend with me now, puberty is around the corner
     
  9. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    I'm totally digging the food aspect that's been added to these posts. I love food, cooking, cooking shows, talking about food, ect.. I have a buddy who is a chef, lately he's been making a lot of meals out of what is considered junk fish or parts of fish normally not on a menu. If you bleed a blue fish right away, it makes unbelievable sashimi. Sliced super thin, you wouldn't believe it's blue fish
     
  10. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    448
    Dec 11, 2008
    I eat a lot of odd things - chocolate covered crickets, rattlesnake, balut (duck fetuses), frog legs, ass, etc. and I won't go near bluefish. My cats like it though.
     
  11. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    596
    May 19, 2006
    I'm a long time foodie too. Worked in the biz for about 10 years. From dish dog through GM. Love to cook. Used to watch a lot of cooking shows too. Don't really watch much TV at all these days though. Also, coffee. Don't know if you saw in the other thread, but I roast my own. Once you try it, there's no going back.

    LOFL!

    Me: "Whatcha eatin'?"
    Dave: "Frog's ass."
    Me: :eek:
     
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  12. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    ...tastes like chicken...
     
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  13. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Balut is nasty, tried it in the Phillipines, I get me some frog legs every time I go to New Orleans, just like LB said, "tastes like chicken"
     
  14. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Yeah, I went back and checked out the coffee roasting posts, that's awesome Carson. I love coffee, a pot a day easy. But I don't mind going a little ghetto now and then. I'll do gas station coffee, dollar store coffee, you name it. But a good cup. is like heaven. I remember driving from the pacific side of CR to the carribean side and stopping at little roadside stands in the coffee groves of the upper rainforests .and yeah, pure heaven. Respect for roasting your own, one day when things slow down I wouldn't mind trying it out. (Full disclosure. my attitude towards coffee extends to beer as well. I love a good micro brew but can swill gennies, pabst, and nattys with the best of them
     
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  15. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    the push was coming in yesterday. U could tell from the cams that the waves were coming in quick. Figured i beat the crowds, alerted some pplz then went for mostly thi hi with rare waist hi action at the Washout. Incoming tide is right at noon when the wind can get on it providing some texture. Maybe i'll shoot for the same later today, tomorrow supposed to have a bit more wind on it and then it's wax on from sunday thru thursday. no jelly stings that time round. My jelly tatt is almost off the bod as is my insecurity
     
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  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I surf on 9/11 cause I was surfing on 9/11. Saw the smoke plume rise from the beach. Just makes sense to me to paddle out.

    It was the 1st day of school today so I got there late after the kids went in. Off shores blowing hard and a little better than waist high waves coming in. Had a hard time of it though. Just not enough waves for the crowd. Plus there wasn't a great push to it and the wind was hanging me up. Started on a fish, got fed up and went to the log. That helped the wave count but was really hanging up. I was doing something like HP long board cheater fives at take off, where you're squatting over your back foot and stretching your front leg out on the tip, for almost the whole ride. Cause once i'm in that position it ain't easy for me to get out of it. Did that for a while and it was cool. Dragging my hand through the glass to find some cover and getting out. Ended it all by really frustrating myself and taking out a short board for an hour. Figure I need a warm up for whats ahead.

    Finishing up my work day now and then making Home made pizza pie and watching Scooby Doo. Hoping for waves for days.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
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  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey what's happening? Whose been surfing? There be waves!

    Been at it myself. The swell is there but weird. Saturday morning fished around and got some ok almost chest high rides. A good take off spot is below sea level in ankle deep water and is all about being quick. If you are quick enough and get going right away you can get some long fast rides. I am not quick so after a few awful hurt real bad attempts, I went and found something breaking in a touch deeper water. Shorter ride but I had a second to get my act together. Found some leg hair in the swallow of the fish. Big ass crack and will be my 1st attempt on ding repair on epoxy. Went home to get my fam and glad I did. With the kids come the boogs. With the boog I went back to the scene of the crime and dropped into some great barrels. Might get into booging. It's nothing but fun! Every type of board was out there. Kite, skim, hand plane. All having a blast too. The boy and I body surfed for hours. I have a strawberry on my back from sand. Enjoyed a chicken supremo hero for early dinner. Chicken, spinach, roasted peppers and fresh mutz with balsamic.
    This morning more swell was coming in but a little sea sick. The sea-level spot was doing it but a way bigger and longer wave was hitting an outer bar. LB's, SUP's and hydroplanes were all way out there. Headed out and rolled into some long rides. Rolled in slow as it feathered, faded back while the section stood up, turn and shoot through. Cutback and wait for the next section and you get the idea. Got enough and enjoyed a coffee and banana while talking story a bit. Now to get the yard work done. Spaghetti frutti de mar for Sunday dinner. Fra diavalo.

    Going to enjoy with a nice chianti.

    man that hydroplane stuff is to cool.

    Hopes you all get waves too. Remember to post up. Food too.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2020
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  18. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    431
    Apr 30, 2013
  19. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
  20. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    596
    May 19, 2006
    Thanks. I called in the pros. I have neither the time nor the inclination to become proficient at ant extermination. :D

    Post from a few days ago. Ant invasion at my house.
     
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