who here has been surfing this week?

@CJsurf If you're getting fed up in the north end, come on down to the south end and surf less good waves but with better company (nobody but yourself). I'm not planning to surf the north end again until maybe January or February, but possibly not until next fall when hopefully COVID is good and over, and everyone has jobs and school they need to actually go to. It sucks, but I'm still having fun.

 

Thanks. Olympus TG-4. It's a nice little point and shoot camera that does rapid bursts while still shooting in RAW mode.

 

I hear ya. There is something about getting on my bicycle to go for a surf. I haven't surfed the south end in almost 10 years. When my kids were little we would go there regularly in the summer.

 

Mitchell, that last photo cracks me up. Got some swell run on the rising tide yesterday morning. Sideshore still, so ya know it's gonna get weird to get on it. Parked on north end of washout here on Folly, drift was south and waves looked thi to waist at times. It was shoots n ladders for a couple blocks, just paddling into until realizing wave socially distanced itself about 6 ft away from ya. I felt it was 50/50 kinda morning until i reached south end of washout. I was staying in the inside and ended up catching wave after wave even at their peaks sometimes. It was one of those i couldn't paddle back and rest, cuz another was coming my wave. But yea waist to stomach, and i just prolly got lucky for the most part. Wasn't crowded which was weird considering the popularity of the spot and it being the wknd. It was good, now it's a mixed bag this week of swell

 

No wrenching involved. Just YAML files and CLI arguments.

 

Excellent weekend of surf. Hit it early on Saturday and even earlier on Sunday since I got the LAST SPOT on Coast when I pulled up Saturday morning at the Power Plant.

Super clean on Saturday morning. Waves were running waist to stomach high on the sets with decent shape. Surfed for a solid 3 hours and got a ton of waves on my 6'4". Afterward, my wife and I did a day date with the dog. Brunch at Union Tap in Encinitas. Had some fantastic Carne Asada hash with eggs and a skillet cornbread topped with eggs and Andouille sausage. My wife is our designated drinker, so she had a couple grapefruit mimosas.

Sunday started out kind of slow. I spent about an hour in front of the stack and the waves were just meh. Got a little south eddy wind junking it up and it was kind of dumpy on the sets. Then, I wondered why everyone was down the beach at house, even on the inside. I could see that the longboard waves out the back was legit, but nobody ever surfs the inside. I paddled in and walked down and well, I found out. The wind stopped blowing the sun came out and the set waves were pumping, hitting head plus. The longboards were owning it out the back but they wave would back off and most of the big boards would kick out, but the reform sections on the inside were super fun. Size still holding chest to head with some nice corners and walls, even a little cover up section every now in then. I spent the last two hours there and got a shit ton of waves. Came home and made a sausage, bell pepper, onion and potato frittata for brunch and the laid around and watched football the rest of the day. After 4 days in a row, can really feel it in my shoulders and lats.

 

It's funny how many weird expressions people have in critical parts of the wave that you don't really notice until you start taking zoomed in pics. Eyes closed, tongue stuck out, karate hands, the list is endless.

 

Went to San O yesterday. Arrived to the gate at 4:45 am. Probably the 100th car.
Surfed all day until about 3. Got to use my new boards finally (broke my toe right after I bought these - longboard inga Ben rough, but can still shortboard).

6’6 scorpion knock off
9’2 in the pink knock off

 

Thanks for picking me up on the way by!

Looked fun!

 

Rolled up to check the waves and got to see my son get an incredible tube ride. Offshore a little overhead on the sets and clean. Within minutes the wind turned on-shore and the waves went to poo. Didn't even bother going back to the house for my stuff. Tomorrow is another day.

 

Dawn patrol morning sickness. Got a few in before my 9:00 meeting.

 

Got out yesterday after work, and yea... poo. Looked like fun from the beach but it was super weak, light onshore junk in the waist to chest high range. Super wonky, too... not sure why but the inside bar was bouncing the incoming set waves al. over the place. Weird and not as fun as I had hoped... but. Surfing is surfing.

 

Great combo swell in the water. Tropical south plus some NW. Lots of chest + waves everywhere. I'm spent.

 

hit the "good" spot at 1st light, surfed there from 645-9. Clean stomach-chest high east swell. Way. way too many unskilled people in the water. At least 40. Lots of high school kids. Not that it took my wave count down, as I've surfed there since 1985, but it was just not safe. Helped a guy out of the water who had a big bloody wound on his temple, about 2" from his eye, courtesy of someone's thruster's nose. Said "fuck this shit" and went to my "local", and surfed very slightly less quality waves with 3 of my neighbors for another hour. Came home and ate seared tuna filets with teriyaki-lime-ginger sauce and a salt bagel with butter.

 

Surfed blown out mush and came home and horked down a couple of chili dogs and a can of PBR

 

Good clean longboard waves yesterday... too bad the crowds are still here. I wonder if they're here to stay?

 

Thi to waist n clean. Shallow at the washout, really wasn't much water at all. Glad i took the undestroyable NSP. Lotta fish, mullet they say

 

Haven't surfed lately but went blue crabbing last weekend with the kiddo and we scored, close to sixty in 2 days. I hate, hate picking out the meat though, so much work, but crab cakes are one of my favorites, worth the labor.

 

I haven't had proper crabs in over 2 years. I'd gladly mow down a couple dozen for you if you send them out west.

 

Still swell here. Went to Grandview today and met up with a buddy. I had forgotten how much fun that wave is. Always a lot of face to work with so you can just setup your turns real nice. Sets were still in the shoulder high range, but the consistency is dropping off quickly. I think today will be the last day for this combo.