About 12 years ago broke 4 ribs and punctured air sacks in my lungs on a beach break. In the hospital for a couple days and out of work for 2 months.Time in the emergency room before an xray I almost had to sneeze. Worst pain I've ever had.It was pretty much a brand new Wrv with a fish tale.Put a hole in the board from the impact.Also put a small hole in my back.Thank God I was wearing a wet suit because I dont think I would have been here. Back in the water 2 months later.
Face planted into a leather back turtle crushed my upper jaw and split me open from the center of my mouth to the top of my forehead. Several pins in yhe roof of my mouth ..had my lip sewn back together and my cheek and forehead stitched up and my eye socket repaired. First wave of the day 2 years ago
The turtle was fine I'm sure..I only know it was a turtle. One of my surf buds said it was a leather back. I drove myself 3o minutes to the e.r almost passing out a few times...not bragging but I surfed 3 weeks later once I got the main stitches removed. It did teach me to be more aware of my surroundings.
I've been very lucky. Other than nearly drowning twice in three days surfing big waves in Puerto Rico I've been pretty much injury free. Took a vintage longboard to the head 30 years ago that split my scalp at my hair line and gave me two black eyes even though the impact was nowhere near my eyes or nose. Very surprised that didn't knock me unconscious. Funny thing about that is it happened on the morning of the 4th of July and the beach was packed. The blood mixed with water made the bleeding look way worse than it really was. I had blood mixed with water down to my waist. The looks on people's faces and the people coming wanting to help me is something I'll always remember.
My oldest son landed on his fins last year and that left a pretty impressive hole in his thigh. Those expensive FCS fins can be like knives if you land on them.
My buddy was out for 5 months after suffering brain damage from taking his board to the head - wave grabbed it from under his feet and brought it right up to his temple. Lots of therapy, yoga and good diet has brought him back to almost 100%. That injury almost cost him his career, and the ability to surf...
Blew my nuts up wiping out balls first. Hospitol visit and pain but just swelling. Stitches over my eye. Fin gashes. Probably my ego has been the most injured through the years.
I was surfing some tiny waves on a bright sunny 4th of July, I think it was 2015. Out there just wasting time and enjoying the day off work, the cruisey little waves were delightful. I was out there wearing a hat to keep the sun off my face, which I have never done before or after. So I catch a tiny one and ride to the beach and plop down in about knee deep water. I fall backwards and reach to grab my hat instead of the board. My leash pulls tight and the board springs back at me. I reach out my foot to stop the board and I miss the tail and catch the back of the fin in the arch of my foot. I didn't feel a thing but I pull my foot up and I'm squirting blood all over. Keep in mind it's the 4th of July and the beach is packed. It was quite a scene. Had to go to urgent care and pay holiday rates for 11 stitches. Cost me close to a G when you factor in the $300 set of crutches that they "gave" me... no insurance.
