Surf books

Clown shoes is back?? LOL!!

 

Surfing, The Ultimate Pleasure by Leonard Leuras

Da Bull: Life Over the Edge by Greg Noll

 

I'm pretty sure it was Shaun's brother Michael Tomson (the guy who owned Gotcha, and was a great surfer in his own right) who passed this week.

 

He didn't. His brother Michael Tomson did.

 

Damn. Sorry about the mis-info everyone!

SHAUN TOMSON LIVES!!!

 

went into a black hole in the interwebs, just ordered Thai Stick by Peter Maguire

 

I read "The Wave" by Susan Casey. My theory on that one is Casey, a very well-connected NYC media exec, duped a publisher into sponsoring her to spend a year or so in places like Hawaii and Malibu (as another poster described) swinging from Laird Hamilton's beanbag.

Allan Weisbacker's books are very entertaining and well-written. His writing persona like a seen-it-all cynical arrogant asshole who's overly impressed with himself. I've met him a few times out in Montauk and as it turns out, it's no literary act. To me that makes his books even better.

By far the absolute best, funniest (and most honest) surfing book I've ever read is "Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell" by Chas Smith

 

I've read like half the book. Haven't bought it, but rented from library several times. Def a good read, just takes me for-e-ver to finish a book

 

Currently on ny second go around reading Blue Mind, by Wallace J Nichols. It's an in depth look at why humans are naturally drawn to water, with some very pertinent points for surfers. It's not a book directly about surfing (although parts are), but it's an excellent read for anyone who loves the ocean or anything to do with it.