What's up? Completely lost track of time and space over the last few weeks. 2 weeks ago was great for surf but also was slammed at work. I surfed when I should have been catching up on work which lead to some long and stressful nights. Fortunately I took PTO all last week. Not much surf but I got to pretend that my full-time job was restoring my old boat for a week. Up early to pick up supplies and then back home to sand, grind, glue, and screw my day away. I'm almost to the point where I get to glass the new floor in. Really looking forward to laminating something that's not a surfboard. Should be interesting. I only wish I cared about my actual job 25% as much as I care about my hobbies. By the way, who here wishes we could have DST year around? I hate getting off work in the dark. Surfing highlight of the last week was Sunday for sure. Chest high lines coming in one after the other took the sting off of not being able to surf after work for the next 5 months. It was good enough that the beginners weren't making it out. Lot's of fun waves and Nigella Lawson's tomato and rice soup with fresh basil and Parsley from the garden for dinner.
Since it looks like we are heading into some extended flatness in these parts I'm posting a couple shots a family friend sent us today of our 15 year old from the Teddy swell.
Not me. I prefer to have the light early in the day. I'm an early riser and surf dawn patrol pretty much exclusively. And now, getting off work has a new context. Not like I have to drive home in the dark.
I'm the exact opposite. I hate turning the clocks back in the fall. If anything I'd like to spring forward an ADDITIONAL hour in the fall. There should be a law that it should never get dark earlier than 7:00pm. I rarely surf dawn patrol and if there is a swell I can usually work around getting some water time in anyway. I'd much rather have a couple of hours of daylight after work. Nothing is more depressing to me than driving home from work in darkness in the winter. My sleep pattern also never adjusts either so I've been feeling like crap since the time change.
Preach, brother. I always kind of tripped out at the idea that the "powers that be" would decide that they are going to manipulate time. Here's an interesting quote "Daylight saving was implemented as a means of energy conservation during the first and second world wars, to mitigate blackouts and allow for more cost-effective war-time production."... "It was first used in the United States in 1918, then again on a much more urgent scale starting in 1942. In fact, in 1942, President Roosevelt urged the term “war time” be used in lieu of “daylight saving time”." Source: https://www.iweathernet.com/educational/history-of-daylight-saving-time-dst Some cool little factoids on that page about DST.
Interesting. Another option is to just end the normal workday at 3:00. That would achieve the same end.
One of the benefits of remote work and "some" jobs is the ability to do just that. Or work for a couple hours, then go out and do something and come back and finish the day. I consider myself blessed to be in that position.
I'm with you. I'm an early riser as well, and I can pretty much always make time to surf before 7-730 am... once the day gets underway it's a crapshoot whether i'll be able to make it out after work with whatever random obligations and logistical concerns pop up at work or at home, plus it's pretty rare everywhere I've lived for the wind to not worsen over the day. Yeah I love a nice sunset glass-off as much as anyone, but if those were the only times I surfed, I wouldn't really surf. I absolutely hate the 1-2 weeks in late October and again in mid-December where it's dark until roughly 7 am and I can only fit in 20-30 min at best. I enjoy after work sessions (or hikes/mountain bike rides) immensely when they happen, but they're not reliable or consistent enough to base my schedule around, and that would still be the case if it got dark an hour later in the winter. Plus, as an extreme morning person (always been this way, I vividly remember being bored out of my mind ever Saturday/Sunday morning in college because I'd wake up by 7-8 no matter what I did the night before and have no one to hang out with for hours), my energy level pretty much nosedives by late afternoon and all I want to do is eat a bunch of food and go to sleep, so I couldn't really care less whether it's light or dark by then.
First time out in a couple of weeks easy, small waves, a little crowded but wow the weather has been crazy nice and today was another stellar day. Great to get a little time to be in the water. We had a pretty decent rumble here in R.I. this morning. My kid was in the bathroom getting ready when I thought either a truck or helicopter was about to hit the house, except there wasn't the noise of a truck or helicopter. It shook enough to startle me and my kid. They said it was off of New Bedford Ma., and registered just under 4 (depending on your news source, I think 3.8 is official.) Felt a tremor in California a few years back, this one was a little stronger. on the EC. lol. Friggin' 2020
Went up to shoot pics of my son around noon today. Noticed some slashing outside about 75 yards outside the lineup so I snapped a couple of pics thinking it might be dolphins. A wave came and I went back to shooting. Got the pics on my computer and those were not dolphins. They were eating whatever the white thing was in the water.
buddy bailed on me this morning, didn't look too advertising early on what light winds would make of it. But i said to myself i could prolly get on those waist hi ones on my loehr 6'9 fish. Well the waves were a bit bigger than that at the washout, shoulder to head hi. I was the only one in the water at 6:45am, which made no sense but didn't take long for crowds to reel in. Bit of a drift south and a lotta power, easy paddle in to and just wait for them to form. First wave, and just about every wave was to the left unfortunately, i snuck in and crouched to peel to the left to try to get in front of the head hi wave. I eventually did, but did the same maneuver several times and i really kinda wanted to stand up and power thru for a lil barrel seeker. Well i got tossed because my rails are super fat (it's an older board) and couldn't catch the line; i rolled 3x on my board - never done that before. By the third time, i put a foot hole right in the upper middle of the finz on the bottom of the board, and gashed a part of the rail. Was super glad tho it didn't rock my face tho or any other part of my body, and also that it didn't happen when i rented that board several days ago in SDiego. Taking a smaller board for next time, and side note, waters are warm here and heard some ppl weren't rocking a suit - November - not bad
man, two maybe three bad sessions in a row. Kinda crazy. Our leftovers from ETA came clean but real soft this morning, and it was about chest to shoulder. I took the 6'4 Alcchemist w twin fins, had a couple good ones but most of them i couldn't get on. Def was the wrong board. But i'm also not keen on surfing w my buddy later today because of the last two bad sessions haha. friday 13th, fellas, very super sticious
Had a couple of weirdo sessions myself. Just was not with it. This happens to me at the end of every fall. Whatever I still surfed and feeling good right now. 3/2 with boots. Hooded vest when the air is cold. Wife made pasta e fagioli and with some calzone, a few gallons of wine and a roaring fire I'll get through. Heck we'll all get through.
Got out for an extended lunch break session today. Could be the best waves of the year. I was out there getting pissed about having to go back to work but then I reminded myself, dude you're surfing on your lunchbreak, you have it better than 99.99% of people on Earth. Made it back to "the office" and noone even noticed I was gone.