who here has been surfing this week?

Got out this a.m before the sunrise.
Lots of fish swimming about .
My friend is sketched out easily and keeps asking me if I see anything.. Like a true friend I assure him he's seeing things. Just able to make out the oncoming sets made for some quick takeoff. Mostly just feeling the ocean move and reacting to stay in the pocket and just enough moonlight to pick up the face of the wave. .. After sunrise we were joined by 100 of my closest friends. Smh. Packed it up and went to volunteer. Then home. I need food

 

Got out yesterday, smallish, waist high, chest maybe with the few and far between bigger sets. I got a couple of fun ones but seemed to blow more waves than I caught. Kept getting hung up on the lip, then other waves I'd pearl. Not my best session, but feel better for getting out, just for the exercise if nothing else. I stayed out a good 3 hours and it was the best workout I've had in months, slept like a baby.
It's getting cold up here.

 

Went out late morning yesterday after the king tide dropped. The wind had shifted to steady onshore and the better waves were chest high, short period NW, so the paddle out was strenuous. To add to that, the water temps have dropped significantly. I was in a 3/2 and was immediately chilled and even got the beginnings of an ice cream headache (back off NJ guys, I know it's colder there ). Snagged a couple really good waves and then packed it in so I could watch the USC game with my wife (she's an alumni).

Thought about it this morning, but the tide was already at 4.9 at 6 AM, so I think I'm going to pass, unless the winds don't turn here in the next couple of hours. Even better shot of NW on the way mid next week.

 

Carson ..you make me jealous. Seem like you get mo betta surf days than me. But I ain't mad at ya.

 

Got in the water at sunrise today at high tide but the swell had enough push to break on THE outside sand bar but it was soft so I rode the long board with a single fin and had some long gliding rides.
Stayed out for just a couple hours. Theres a launch here again..I live pretty close to cape Canaveral on the banana river in cocoa beach so theres lots of traffic tonight. Anyway hope you guys are getting your share.

 

I'd gladly share if I could.

 

I texted that guy after Friday's evening session, saying he was totally at fault for the shtty run of surfing i got myself into. Skipped out on the last hour of work cuz it was naturally going terrible and ppl were trying to get sht done at last minute - i wasn't having it. Waves were shaping up on incoming hi tide, and i reeled in a friend to come out with. It was gorgeous stomach to chest hi w long lines. I was all over it with the NSP and then switched to her CR board Peli, both mid-length shapes. Drove up to N Washout, sunny skies and nice sunset. It was money, and i made up for it working a couple hours over the wknd

 

Challenging but fun surf all weekend. Nice size swell and if you were lucky you could score a nice ride. Not many people were out so I went down to the more crowded spot to hopefully score some higher quality. Caught a few gems and paddled against the current for a few hours. Great workout before I pull out the full-on wetsuit. Still in the short sleeve spring suit for now.

 

SurfLies strikes again...but in a good way. Forecast called for 2-3 off a combo of NW and SSW swells. Buddy of mine who lives in Washington is in town, so he hit me up last night. Decided to meet at North Ponto at first light. Figured there would still be some leftover swell in the water. Got to the spot at 6 AM and the wind was steady offshore and there were waves, for sure even though the tide was coming up quick. Suited up in my 3/2 (mistake) and paddled out in the little channel area north of the north jetty. As soon as I get outside, a set rears up. Nothing 3 foot about it. At least 5, pushing 6 feet. Ducked that one and a couple of its buddies. Watched a guy on a foil ripping down the line on a big open face. Buddy paddled out a couple minutes later and we took another big set on the head. Finally found a good spot and got a few good ones on the intermediate sets, which were solid chest + high. Kinda soft with the rising tide, so the take off was a nice roll in and pump down the line as it hit the inside sandbar. Was able to get a few good turns in on a couple waves. Definitely fun times. After a couple hours, I was freezing. Feet were cold (still are), hands were cold and was shivering all over. Yes, it's time to switch to the 4/3.

Get back to the car and look at what Surfline was calling it. The spot I was at, 1 to 2. The report from Bird said pretty much knee to waist everywhere with the occasional, rare stomach high set. I think Bird must have been wake and bakin' or something.

Now, coffee and work.

 

I feel like this is how the majority of my sessions in Cali have gone. When they say 2-3ft, I'm thinking 2-3ft east coast. Then I check it and the lineup is about 50% farther out than I think it is, again underestimating it. Then I get out there and see it's about twice as big and 4x as powerful as I was expecting. Like Bob Ross said, happy accidents.

 

Got a new boart 2-3 weeks ago. Orion Flying Saucer 6'8" x 22 W x 2.8" @ 43 L

Lots of volume north of center gets you in easy peasy. Squash tail with new F4 FCS2 Swiss Made super turbo fins gives it a boost. Gotta go more front footed after the bottom turn or it goes whoosh and it's gone like a banana peel. It rocks!!!

Been out in all kinds of slop to VAS lately, got one semi clean-up session last week it was awesome. Today I hit the south side of the Jupiter Inlet on the last couple hours of incoming tide so
1. the water wasn't total crap
2. Nugs would miss the outside bar and wedge up on the inside protected cove with easy paddle out in the 30 mph plus NE slop. Crowded but lots and lots of waves to be shared.

Got some great backside lefts in the head high range, a good grab rail pig dog on one and stood up way too fast and the board went whooosh as I put my hands up over my head and said "Woooo!" and made it out the back.

I figured out tomorrow incoming hi tide chaos - next opportunity to pig dog a pit, I need to let go of the rail, stay in a semi crouch, unwind, and Hit The Lip and throw a pizza spray to let the crew know I'm still alive and well. Love the new boart...Greg G is The G!

Life is goode!!!

 

Winds , whales and cold , and bass ! Skinny 30 incher , prior night had squid attacking the bombers

 

NW is here! Surfed dawn patrol this morning and stayed out for a solid 3 hour session. Waist to head high, kinda soft rollers that were sucking up hard on the inside bar. Still a little mixed up with the mix of four swell components and not a hint of wind. Got plenty of good one, even a bottom turn into a little cover up that I made it out of going front side. Took my share of spills too and even whacked my foot with a fin, leaving a nice bruise. As luck would have it, I wore booties for the first time today. Otherwise, I probably would have a nice gash on my foot.

More to come tomorrrow!

 

How long was the drive to Greg's place? Isn't he in new Smyrna?

 

Went out Sat late morning w a very crowded amount of ppl all over south of washout. Probably 30 ppl between the jetties, but it wasn't without reason. Sideshore waves thru the week provided a more on-shore flow then, giving waves some texture but also some ways out of the chest to shoulder hi drops. Saw some shortys that had volume but not a lotta LBs either. I had four sessions, each time drifting down 3 blocks down with some fun rides each time on the 7'2 Hog Molly boart. Next day, my buddy had a small window several hours after lo tide. It was some chop and smaller, but it was rideable. Stayed away from Washout this time, didn't look any better than where we were at on 8th E, and took out the 7'6 NSP to catch anything that i thought i would miss. Had two sessions there with two waves coming to mind this morning. I took on a naughty wave where i hit the lip of the wave 5x curving in and out, giving some heart-felt hand slaps each time. Another where i thought for some reason i could almost escape a small barrell...on a NSP. I think i might have a chance today around noon to get the last of it before i head back inland for turkey time

 

It's been a good run.

Friday:
NW dropped off a touch, but lined up some overnight. Was still in the chest+ range. Got some really good ones at the Powerplant (which is about 30% torn down now) before work. Nice and clean with little offshore wind.

Saturday:
Same spot, same conditions only a notch smaller. Took my 7'2" because I suspected that I would need a little more volume and I was right.

Sunday:
Went to the Campgrounds because the NW was tapering off and there was some SW in the water which gets picked up better there. 7'2" again and it was a good thing. Probably only hit about waist to stomach on the best set waves. Still had fun.

Now, getting things ready for the annual Thanksgiving camping trip. Heading to Buckskin Mountain in Arizona in a 34' RV. Good times ahead!

 

did get some small ones at lunch. Found a small crack in my LB, so i took the roomie's LB. It has a large round nose, and do those board sucks 95% of the time. Probably the reason i took it first out. After 20 min i finally paddled all the way in to grab those and ride 30-40 yarders. It was thi to waist hi, nothing great but i did have fun going down the line until i TPd one - somehow, not sure how - and that big ass board landed on my head. Yep, another small crack - this time on the deck. I got a board in the shop currently for some major repairs, been so destructive w my riding. Not sure what's happening

 

You're shredding the gnar! That's what happening!