who here has been surfing this week?

14 ft at 12.9 sec . Low wave ratio , semi offshore and full tide . Freaking thick as big made for some epic standup barrels .

 

Well this feels pretty weak compared to the above, but I did get some surf today.

Big burly VAS yesterday with winds gusting to 45+ mph. I'm good. Wind switched a couple hours after dark and I was lining up the dawn session. Woke up at 5 and checked it to see a high tide swallowing up what was left. I was going to charge it anyway, but soon as I stepped into the 30 degree air to start the van I said "f this" and got back in bed.

Low tide was at 2 so I broke for lunch at noon and hustled down to the beach. Managed to snag some fast and clean little rides. Nothing spectacular but it's always nice to work out the surf muscle.

Made it back just in time for my 2pm meeting, and while I was supposed to be paying attention I re-heated a big bowl of pork lo-mein, moo goo gai pan, and a pile of white rice left over from the weekend.

 

delaware was solid - not like your size. I hemmed and hawed an hour watching a few friends paddle out, with mixed results. I HATE paddling out near rocks and jetties and taking a bunch of waves on the head drifting into the rockpiles. After the high tide passed around 8 a.m. and the tide started out, it got a LOT more appealing looking to me and I surfed from 9-12. Got some absolute GEMs. Shot of a friend afterwards. All of the set waves were about this size.

 

That's pretty damn solid Mitchell. I took the first pics before 11 am, still foggy, checked back at around 2 pm, when I took the others. With the tide dropping it only seemed to get bigger, and it was busy at this point. Never saw so many clean up sets take out the majority of the lineup, not once but a bunch of times when I was there, big outside sets. Lots of others taking pics and vids so hope some other stuff comes out, I'm sure I missed a lot. Side shores started picking up quite a bit when I left. You know the spot Mitchell, your favorite.

 

That's some good $hot right there!

 

Winter has arrived.

 

We didn't get diddly yesterday. Thought maybe a bump in the morning, but it was it was only about knee high... not enough to inspire me. Water was sh!t brown, too... so spearfishing was out. Hoping it clears up over the next few days with some light west winds.

 

Had a quick shot of cold swell on Saturday, smaller than last week but about waist hi at times, mostly thi hi. Grabbed the LB, loaded up, then grabbed my booties and gloves after doing so. Might have been a bit over the top, but i was comfy as a mug (still a saying?). Lotta surfers out, but had a handful of riding down the line when i could. Most were short in and out, but i put an hour in before i called it to catch all those Saturday games. Lotta nothing predicted for a while, bout time i switch all boards on cold wax

 

2 sessions on Saturday. AM was blowing hard out of the WSW, gusting to 40. It was all you could do to stay in the lineup and not get blown out to sea. It was worth it though as I got a few easy tubes and long racy rides. When we got back on the boat a gust of wind caught my board and almost took me overboard. It was blowing hard af.

By the evening the wind slowed to about 5mph out of the WNW. Buttery glass and small but strong waves coming in. Surfed until after dark then we headed home for some home-made and super spicy vegetarian red curry and rice. Nice way to warm up after a day in the wind and water.

By Sunday morning all the swell was long gone. Made all the effort on Saturday seem that much more worth it.

 

Got out yesterday thankfully, not much on the horizon up here either. Hit up the town beach for once, saw long clean lines driving by and hadn't surfed there in a long time so why not? Had a bunch of fun ones but none of my rides were all that long. Missed an easy barrel, all I had to do was crouch low and I was in, but took the lip around chest high, by the time I readjusted the moment passed.
Went for a beer at my local (can only sit at tables, not at the bar) which has a great view of multiple easy point breaks, and they looked really fun. Not crowded and I watched a lot of fun long rides. Even had a little more size than the beach. It was nice hitting up sand bottom breaks for once but it's back to the rocks for me.
It's cold. My third season in my 5/4 and trying to make it through. I really don't want to fork over another 300 or more this winter, money is tight right now. Air temp never went above 40, water is still in the fifties thank god, stiff breeze is what made me cold. Made it a good 2 hours, if we have a mild winter I think I can make it through

 

Surfed Thurs, Fri, Sat and Sun. Couple sessions were 3 hours +. I'm pretty toast.

Thursday and Friday were fun, consistent waist to chest. One of those days (Thursday, I think) was hard offshore, like 20+ mph winds. Made for some interesting blind drops.

Saturday was the day. Light offshore winds with very consistent chest to head waves with a few overhead+ sets thrown in to keep you on your toes. The break at the warm water jetty was throwing overhead barrels so it was cool to watch those dude get shacked while I was sitting in the lineup. I ended up sitting inside taking the small and mediums because those set waves were like 22 second period and were just block long closeouts. The insiders offered a few corners to work with.

Sunday the swell dropped WAY off. Forecast said it was still going to be chest high, but it was the rare set wave that hit stomach high or so. Maybe a bit bigger. Still super fun.

 

Dude, that's a lot of charging, that's awesome. Can't remember the last time I got 4 days in a row. Worst thing for me about not getting out consistently is my cardio suffers. I haven't been riding my bike and it showed yesterday, easy ass day and I got winded.

 

Yesterday, there was new, fresh NW swell in the water and on the rise. I paddled out at first light and it was legit out there. Ducked a couple waves that were a couple feet overhead and had a couple head high waves before deciding that discretion was the better part of valor for the day. Got out and changed and watched for about an hour as the swell filled in even more. Saw a couple sets hit the Warm Water jetty that were DOH (not shittin' you). Saw some great rides and some spectacular wipe outs. Super fun day from the bluff.

Today it was supposed to be bigger so I arranged a walk with my wife and Copper, the sexiest beast of an English Bulldog in the world. It was still really good, but it didn't appear quite as big as the biggest sets I saw yesterday. Still, there were a ton of people out and saw some really cool rides. Copper was not impressed. He just decided to eat sticks and sniff the dirt. I want his life.

 

Been surfing just about every day lately. I have so much downtime. That’s the one silver lining to covid is that I’ve actually gotten gold at surfing again and I’m at my best since 2010-2011.

I’m also finding out unfortunately that it’s way too cold for me out there. I tough it out, but I can’t do it without being really irritated with the cold water (and the water ain’t even that cold yet) and cold air. So I’m always half dreading and half anticipating my surfing every day.

This would be the perfect year to have already had a place in Florida that I spoke of in the other thread, or some other warm retreat.

 

Swell dropped overnight to a more manageable level (for me). Surfed for a good 3 hours this morning. It was pretty consistently chest high with some sets pushing head+. Super fun morning with the regulars hooting each other's rides.

 

been an epic week out west...been really fun watching people do battle with DOH OB SF. couple of great OB SF cams here: http://www.larrysvacationwebcams.com/cams/SFOceanBeach.php

 

Today was the best day I have had in a long while. Offshore and consistently chest+. The period dropped too so it wasn't walled up. Lots of nice little peaky waves. I only got out because my arms were toast. I have no idea what my wave count was because I had so many. To add to the joy, there was practically no one out. I sat on the main peak alone for a good 30 to 45 minutes taking wave after wave after wave.

Ate a quick cheese sandwich before diving into work.

 

Crappy waves today in SF but a few weeks ago I had a blast at north end of OB while getting used to a new josh hall fish. There were loads of steep chest to head high waves. This is my first fish and it’s longer than most at 6’6”. I’m moving down in size from long and mid size. Lots of turnability and speed makes for a completely different ride. Back to OB, it’s been crazy huge out there (15ft) and way beyond my comfort zone. Poking around south today hoping for some fun. Here’s a snap from Cambria and Big Sur from a few weeks ago.

 

Right on dude. Josh Hall's fishes are cool.

You should open up another thread to introduce yourself.