who here has been surfing this week?

A couple shots during my coffee break this morning

 

I have my kid today, couldn't get out myself, but mild temps and no wind, it seemed like every spot was working. I let my kid take pics today, she got a couple of decent ones.

 

Two sessions today Wilderness i the AM and Domes in the PM. Nothing spectacular.

Couple of shots from last night right before dark and after 12 hours of travelling. My son wanted to get a couple. I was exhausted from the 3 hour hell drive from San Juan.

 

Two sessions in today so far. Has a little size but its kind of soft. We are both rashed up and sore. LOL.

 

You guys and your photos!!! Super happy to see all the pics!

Today I managed to get in around low tide at 3 pm. A bit offshore and the ocean was generous and was giving a nice push with waist high waves. Not exactly lined up but it was fun.

Only 3 guys in the water as far as I could see. Rode my 7.0 mini me custom. Water 72. Air 85.

 

Beautiful water... wow.

 

Three sessions yesterday. Parking Lots was crowded but pretty fun before the wind came up then two sessions at Domes. The camera gear stayed home yesterday. So far I've actually got very few photos this trip. Been surfing more and shooting less. I'm also not a fan of leaving thousands of dollars worth of camera gear in the car down here so if my plan is to spend much time in the water the camera gear stays behind. Shot some speed blurs the other night at sunset.

 

those speed blurs are amazeballs. Particularly a fan of the top one. We had our quick shot of swell come thru yesterday afternoon into the evening. Escaped the home office early, went down the street to ride in btwn 3rd E and the pier, back and forth for 4 sessions. Long lines and clean sections made the cruising on the LB easy as add water flapjacks. Had a handful of drive in barrels only to get swallowed up but the board wasn't affected, close to low tide. But the rest were me dragging a hand back and finding my lines. Great day to ride with the sun coming out late afternoon

 

Small surf yesterday. Almost flat this morning but expected to come up this afternoon and be good tomorrow. Pulled out the camera at sunset last night and played some more with light and shutter speed. Shot until pitch black darkness using the narrow beam of light from the disappearing sunset. Shutter speeds as slow as 1/15th of a second for the camera geeks out there. Got some interesting effects.

 

Skipped out of work early yesterday and scored some really fun surf before sunset. Plan on doing the same today. Just over a week until DST kicks in, aka evening surf season!

This weekend is looking dead flat. Getting geared up to try and catch some fish from the boat.

 

Did you use a tripod or monopod to keep the shake down? Or a remote shutter release?

 

I almost always hand hold. I'll use a mono-pod if I plan on shooting for a couple of hours or if I want to get some video clips. I've used a tripod about twice in the past year and only when my primary focus is video. Using a very heavy stabilized lens and body combo helps dampen shake along with good technique.

 

Professional level pics, always appreciated

 

Still alive and well in the dirty souff! Glad to see ya'll and you'ze guys are getting some good sessions in. Played hooky from life today and got some solid chest to shoulder plus sets on the incoming tide. Low pressure off coast sent us a clean groundswell for once, instead of choppe and nar. It was beautiful lining up some easy in drops and making sections for once. The 6'8" Orion Flying Saucer hybrid lived up to it's name today as it scooted and picked up speed on the warbles and warps in the pocket.

It was heartwarming to see some cool folks out in the water getting good long waves and having fun. Spread out crowd and shifty peaks made everyone guessing and missing and catching random peaks so no one was getting in anybody's way. Good vibes! I got a few long ones from outside all the way to the reform and in to the beach. That's why I'm posting. It was wunnerful, very very wunnerful.

Big bait fish jumping. Clear water. Water temp plummeted from the last week long warm south wind choppe, all the way down to 74 degrees today. Air temp a chilly 68. Not sorry! Life is goode!

 

our swell continued yesterday morning. It didn't look too appealing, except to those longboarders that would ride ankle hi waves by the pier, any pier. But it was better than my eyes could take, thi to waist hi's and long lines. Took the LB for the early lunch to get in before hi tide. It was ez $ out there, toes on the nose stuff. I started at N washout and drifted S Washout before i let out of my hour lunch. Fun, wild session. Reminded me of when i got the nickname Shred Flintstone from a neighbor down here. Yabba Dabba Yeww

 

Best morning of the trip for this old fart. After driving around and finding all of the regular spots packed and my son doing a quick frustrating session at a localized spot I drove back a road to check a spot I remembered checking on a trip back in the 90s. There were only two guys out with a fun but inconsistent right coming in off of a rock outcropping. After about half an hour the other two guys went in leaving me to enjoy this spot all alone for the next two hours. My son grabbed a few shots. While the waves were a little soft, just to have waves like this all to myself made the trip worth it after otherwise disappointing surf for a week. What you can't see in the pictures is how insanely clear the water was. Every fish and turtle in the water was plainly visible as was every rock and piece of coral on the bottom. The water was so clear it actually messed with your mind and depth perception as you rode the waves. I've only surfed water this clear one other time and that was 30 years ago in the Bahamas.

 

Wave looks fun as hell CJ, great to see you getting some!!

 

we're getting a decent bump here on Folly this wknd. Hopefully by Monday, I'll have a decent report. Mornings and evenings are the windows to operate. Stayed a lil longer than i needed to this morning, twas bout waist hi for the most part. Resisted the LB tho it was strapped, i took out the fat fish. Slipped a lil bit here and there on the booties, but i was able to get some turns in. Short lines, so not much to work with but it felt satisfying to just get in the water (before work). Supposed to get bigger this evening, cross those toes

 

I'm praying you get some surf because that would mean I get some surf, most of the time at least.

Been looking at a dead flat ocean for 2 weeks.

 

We've got some movement in the ocean here by cape Canaveral. Ive had a few mediocre soft mushy seshs but nothing to brag about. There's always the wave of the day but still I digress