Do you suck at surfing? Have you accepted it yet?

I guess what I'll never forget is how my friend and I had a swim on inflatable paddle boards along the river. We decided to compete to see who would be the fastest on the paddle board upstream. We were accompanied by people who filmed it on video from both banks along the entire length of the river. My inflatable paddle board withstood a strong current, and I was able to swim to the final, but my friend turned over and had to be pulled out of the water. I was happy to win, but also worried about my friend. Everything went well, and I decided to say that there are no winners in this competition and that we will definitely repeat it next season!

 

You are not human. Your girlfriend is a figment of your programming. You do not exist.

 

I peaked in my late 30s and ever since I suck a little bit more each year. Still out there though at 51. If I ever really start to suck and determine that I need a crutch I'll take up longboarding.

 

Shots fired!!

 

I suck but I have more fun now. I was decent back in the day. This is my sucky self having fun just trimming along.

 

Surfed yesterday and today... like a 57 year old. Got a bunch of fun ones, but I hope nobody was looking.

 

Of course I'm a fkn sponger


In all seriousness I haven't been on a juicy wave in about 4 years. But I pushed my daughter into some 1 foot shore break last summer and it was better than any wave I've ever caught.

That being said, mothertruckers better be ready to share when I get back.

 

o kylie

 

Top 3 non-sucky surfers are:

3. Wayne

2. Roy Stuart

1. Colin Herlihy

 

Speaking of sucking at surfing. Seems like I've had a run of really good sessions and then occasionally you get that one day or either you're not quite lining it up or you have the wrong board or you make some bad decisions reacting in the wave. Recently I had one of those sessions and I was completely judgmental on myself and hoping nobody was watching. I seem to be spinning out of the top of the wave and I don't know if it's my timing or finchoice or even board choice but occasionally I just have one of those days.

 

One of the reasons why I always try to surf solo... lol!

 

Sucking only sucks around a crowd. A busy day, packed with rippers, not a wave wasted, and you blow yours. That sucks. Then there are days with not a soul around, and your killing it, cover ups if not legit barrels, Carolina cutbacks, yeah man. I'm sure we've all been there