who here has been surfing this week?

Finally had sumtin to ride bout it. Chopzilla but breaks were thi to waist+. I took the LB, but prolly could have taken a shiftier boart. Then again, wouldn't have had the couple rides down to shore on the second lull. got a handful of em in the lunch hour. Felt good, down to the rashguard and trunks

 

Every once in a while, I turn on the Dick Dale Pandora station. Just seeing all the albums with surfers on the cover of compilation albums with the surf guitar tunes, I'm thinking to myself "man, they must've exploited the fuk out of the surf community in the 50's/60's." I don't think it's as bad as it is today, but if i lived in that generation and was already surfin i'm sure the kook level was a high 10 then. Just something to think about this summer with the influx of ppl...could be worse. I'm speculating of course

 

I see photos of my local beach back in the early 1900s, like 1920, and the beach is actually more packed than it is now. People right on top of each other. That said, there were far fewer access points and I think everyone hung out around the access.

 

Total BUZZKILL. WTF!

 

Hey CJ, that spot has been super crowded every decent swell. I’m guessing because of that camera. Some of the other rights in that area are working and way less people out. I’m planning a dawn patrol tomorrow for some leftovers, hopefully it doesn’t look like that or else I’ll be back in the south end until the fall

 

That's only like 15 people.

 

I live in the North End and the Surf Rd to 8th Street zone is pretty much my back yard. I shouldn't let it bum me out but it does. I should go to the South End..........

 

Crikey! Is that Snapper Rocks, mate?

 

That was at noon on a Monday for crying out loud.

 

That looks like an average summer day at my local lol.

 

Surfed yesterday with 3 other dudes. First time in a while I had company at my local. Guess you could call it, "the beginning of the end."

 

Thought i saw something on the cam early yesterday morning. Pretty windy day, seeing the winds cut down with a chance of a storm around 5. It worked out, took the 7'4 Angulo and 6'4 Perfection fishes. Northerly drift, chest+ sets. It was pretty dam fun, rode both. This morning there were leftovers, weak waist hi's. Took the LB and had a few decent ones. The weather been fantastic. Some rain, some swell later this week here on Folly

 

Get off work yesterday pissed off and annoyed at the inconsiderate d-bags I'm forced to be nice to everyday. Fortunately there were some little waves coming in and some strong drift to take the brunt of my rage. I paddle out on my 8ft Catch Surf at almost dead high tide, with every intention of slamming hard in the shorebreak a few times.

I caught some nuggets feathering on the outside which made for some long but mushy rides. As much as I tried, the high-tide backwash and a deep spot 20ft off the beach kept me out of the shallow little pits I was hunting. About halfway through the session I did manage to get a little coverup on the outside by accident. I didn't realize it at the time but by the time I popped thru that lip I had already forgotten about how angry I was.

Surfed for only about 45 minutes but I snagged 10 waves and got a nice workout from the drift. Hit the grocery store on the way home, spent way too much money, and then made a "last chance" dinner with the food left in the fridge from the last grocery trip. Ended up dozing on the couch before I even rinsed my wetsuit.

 

Paddled out this morning for some 2-3' leftovers and was super pleasantly surprised by the light off shore winds and incoming tide push. Surprisingly, I had a jetty all to myself for over an hour and just feasted on right after right after right. CJ would know this spot well, it's where one of the local surf shops rents boards and does lessons, and there is a camera as well. There were a couple guys trying to find some lefts a couple blocks north who eventually paddled over and I traded waves with them for another half hour before I had to get out and head home.

It was a great day to get the 9'6" back in the water after that repair. I was having a little trouble locking in the tail for solid nose rides on the smaller waves so I just stayed in trim and worked on a couple backside turns to keep myself from racing too far out in front of the wave. On the bigger set waves it was a lot easier to walk the nose and perch a bit. I couldn't be happier with how things played out this morning!

 

Good stuff man. First session after you put some blood and sweat into a board is usually pretty satisfying, as long is it doesn't starting coming apart of course.

 

Went up last night before dark and shot the crowd at the previously mentioned crowded spot. The light was decent. Some samples.

 

Interesting that you said that, Steef... I found the waves a little soft for noseriding yesterday, too. At least when the tide starting making it a bit deep...

 

Got some myself today, finally!! Hit up an easy point, soft waist high, long rights, lots of fun. Got a little busy at one point, paddled over to the next spot but it had some decent sideshores blowing, got a good one then headed back to the original spot. It thinned out and I stuck it out until dead low. I'm definitely out of sync, missed a bunch sitting too deep. Once in a while a big one would roll through and I would head out too deep hoping for another.. All in all a fun day, enough long rights to make me smile, and a great vibe in the water.

 

A bad drone shot , waist to chest peelers with phenom water colors for Joisy