who here has been surfing this week?

Reminds me of the time I asked a stranger with about a 6 year-old kid if I could use his son to squeeze through my partially opened sunroof to grab my key that was sitting in the center console. LOL!

 

That is too funny. We were def keeping an eye out for a kid with skinny arms to reach through our window as well!

 

Got some fun little stomach high waves for about an hour this evening to myself. Water warmed up too.

 

Went out last night with the incoming tide but there really wasn't enough energy in the water up here. Paddled from spot to spot just for the exercise, got a couple of fun ones, but I really mean a couple. Beautiful night, fish were jumping all around, think they were blues.

 

My son and his friend got booted out of the water today surfing at the surfing beach. Waves a little overhead with a drift. Safe to surf in January. Safe to surf after guards leave for the day. Unsafe to surf while the poolswimmer lifeguards are on duty. I hate this place in the summer.

 

Memorial day weekend is off to a good start. Small rideable surf this a.m maybe thigh to waist. And then nothing but drunks and fat families who ha wnt seem the sun in a while

 

Had a long entertaining wknd. Enuff to feel under the weather today. Too bad working remote isn't much of an excuse to not work when feeling sick. Surfed Sunday morning. Got to Washout several hours before hi tide, took out three boards, rode two - The LB and loehr fish. They were waist hi sets, had some lines to get out but it was sorta weak. It was the only time to get on it this past wknd, so i hustled for several hours with a bud to get on em as much as possible. Crowd wasn't as bad, may have something to do with cloudy, almost rain like conditions or that surfline predicted .5-1ft poor waves

 

Surfed Friday Morning and Monday. Tides were not in my favor so I ended up catching a lot of sandy tubes. Then did some body surfing and got sunburnt. Burritos and beers after surfing, then a little yard work. Good ol' fashioned American long weekend.

 

Woke up this morning to thunderstorms and was compelled to check the surf. Looked like crap out front but the buoys were telling a different story. Loaded up the van on a hunch and left the wife snoozing in bed. I had a meeting at 9am so I was on a mission to get some.

Get to the beach and I could hear waves breaking from my parking spot. Grab my 5'6 twin and run down to the water. I paddle out and there's one other dude getting his medicine on a longboard. After about 15 minutes he gets out and I have the entire spot to myself. A band of rain passes, sun comes back out, and a super bright and vibrant rainbow materializes to the south.

At this point the rain has cleaned up the surf and I'm picking off waist high nugs. I'm not trying to rush back to the house for my meeting so I start chasing my last wave at 8:20. After a few minutes I get my best wave of the day; a right-hand runner with room for 3 turns. As I'm getting out a few people are starting to show up to the beach. Perfect timing.

I get changed and mosey back to the house. I'm on the call at 9 with folks from around the globe, a call that I organized and I'm leading, in my boardies with still wet hair. So to recap, I surfed clean waves, by myself, under a rainbow, and still managed to crush it at work. Life is good.

 

What's up my fellow swellies. Catch any waves lately?

Another morning of thunderstorms, but today I was expecting the swell. Up at 5 and out the door for dawn patrol. Get to the beach and the sky is very ominous but the surf was pumping. Chest high and clean, no one out. It's storming hard a few miles offshore, lighting every couple minutes, but the surf looked so enticing that I had to paddle out.

It was super playful windswell, 4.5ft at about 6 seconds. I felt like I had a skatepark all to myself. I catch 3 waves, and on the paddle back out I see a streak of white in the clouds over my right shoulder. Cra-cra-cra-BOOOMMMM lightning hits the water a couple football fields away from me. Instant thunder. I'm terrified and obviously should not have paddled out. My adrenaline is pumping. I sprint paddle in and run all the way to the van.

I hang out for a bit to see if it would clear up before driving home. On the drive I feel the adrenaline start to subside and my mind clears. WTF was I thinking... LOL. Now i'm sitting at my desk checking emails like I didn't just have a brush with fate.

 

I got out there for "sunrise" tho very cloudy that you wouldn't know it. Luckily it was pouring this morning. I saw some soft waves off the cam bout waist hi, so i took the 7'4 fish funshape. Been out with a cold so not in the best shape. It was windy mayhem, but best form was out at the Washout. Choppy, small drift north, chest hi+. Waves were fast n pretty steep - i got rolled on my last wave out. Did have a handful of rides, one long left under a curl my buddy had a good view of, probably the best of the day. Otherwise, i was getting floaters to drop into. Was looking for the shoulder on em, most pplz were kamikazing themselves. I'm pretty content, looking forward to after work 5pm hi tide sess

 

REDEMPTION SESSION

Went down for an extended lunchbreak session this afternoon. Always amazing how a couple hours can change conditions so much. Sunny skies, not a single cloud, onshore wind about 5mph, and the surf built to head high on the sets. I was surfing against the clock and caught a **** load of waves on my 5'6 twin. Finally got to open it up on a couple of the better walls. Now I get the twin fin hype.

Definitely feeling redeemed after running to my van in fear this AM

 

Friday evening was a quick round as the leash broke on me. Took both shorties, chest hi quick chop rides. Had some really nice rides for that short bit tho. Felt pretty good bout it knowing my next day plans. Sat early morning drove up to IOP, took some thi hi, occ waist hi ones out on 27th on the LB. Only a handful of us out there getting it on that side of the pier. Was there for the sand sculpture contest they have annually, always great to see what they create. Got to see my ol college buddy out there with his bro, they won the family part with a friendly, playful whale jizz joke. He wanted to do the no parking sign, i recommended a coyote biting down a small poodle but whale jizz for the win. That evening took it back to folly to get to ride the 6'9 loehr fish at washout. Was there for a couple hours hoping it would clean up, but waist hi rideables were fine for me. It was a long endurance of sun worship. Got the car, RAV4, booked for Cali trip. Nothing even close to cool book otherwise unfortunately. Inventory may be low or sumtin, but checked that off the f'n list. Slept well

 

Pics of the sandcastle contest please! LOL

 

Sloppy waist to chest high waves this evening. Took out a 90s high performance board just to see if I could still ride it. First wave on it was just like I'd never gotten off of it then never caught another wave with enough push to make it go. Going to have to try this one again in some waves that have push.

 

Didn't think we'd have any swell today, so I over did it with drinking last night (2 mojitos and a six pack of tall Narragansetts, enough to make me feel like shit this morning, Im a light weight). There are waves right now, need to get motivated.

 

Hangover gone and stoke level super high!! Everyone was scratching for closeouts at the town beach, the spot I hit up only had a few others out, I got so many fun ones including a few that had size, deep bottom turns onto an open face, set my line and fun, fun, fun. Life is good.

 

Finally got some fun surf after a long visit from a high pressure system. Friday solid 3 afternoon sesh.
Saturday 2 to 3 morning on the incoming tide and today 2 ft but good energy in the wave. Great weather and Geeze What's with the food prices at the grocery store?

 

Just curious what boart it was. Took off the roof racks Saturday, stopped being optimistic on waves after getting cold shoulder for most of week. Did glide on the LB Saturday, thi hi leftovers from all the chop,mush we had during the week. May get a shot of swell tomorrow or wednesday, hopefully

 

Took a rare trip up to NH as that's where the waves were. Not as crowded as I feared and the water was warm enough to skip booties for the first time this year (thank god). My only complaint is that I am spoiled by surfing beach breaks without any rocks so I had to pay more attention when ending a ride than usual.