who here has been surfing this week?

paddled out Sunday at dawn, an hour after low. It was waist+ and every 20-25 minutes a head high+ wave would roll through. The tide line on the beach was absolutely disgustingly filled with debris, however, the water was very clean and clear. Surfed for 3 hrs, then it started to fill in with the moon tide, and the wind picked up going a little sideshore, so I went home and ate 3 slices of leftover pizza heated up in the air fryer and then right after that I had a ham egg and cheese on a bagel (but I gave the top of the bagel to the dog). Then I read the Post on my deck and watched the gardener work for the next 2 hours. Great Sunday

 

Glad to hear you guys are getting some!

I scored pretty good on Saturday. Found a secluded spot with free parking and surfed for a solid 4+ hours. The waves just kept coming and there was enough push that I wasn't wearing myself out scratching for waves. It was overcast and cool and the sea breeze didn't kick up until late in the day. Passing showers kept all the tourons locked safely away in their vacation rentals.

Afterwards I hit my favorite bottle shop for some brews and enjoyed some authentic Venezuelan food from a food truck. Then we hit a brewery and continued to consume beverages. Awesome Saturday.

 

6'6 x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2. One of my early shapes that I copied off of a Natural Art. Picture below taken before sanding which is why the reflections look funny. My board building and my logo have improved considerably. The board on the right is now almost as brown with age as the original.

Was happy that at almost 52 I can still ride something like this. I purchased that Natural art in 1991 or 1992 and it was by far the best board I ever owned. A one board quiver. The main reason I got back into making boards was because I couldn't find a board like this in a shop anymore.

 

Got out for a solid 3 hours. Nothing special, kind of a repeat of Sunday but cleaner, although the waves were a little smaller and had less push for sure. But as always, once in a long while, a nice one would come through to definitely keep up my interest. Weather was awesome, fish were jumping again, and not to sound like a broken record, but no one was out. Definitely not an epic or stellar day, but in a month everyone will be out scratching for a day like today,. I'll take it now, thank you very much.

 

been a while, took out a chick's board this morning down the street. 8' torq squash tail, 3 fins. It wasn't as manueverable, got locked up a couple times dropping in. Almost sideshore, so it had to be quickly adapting. There were a couple where the build of the wave went chest hi, but for most part waist hi. Couple i couldn't get out off the shoulder, slo or crashing down pronto. Plan is to get back out there before lunch, right before hi tide

 

Missed a sesh this morning for a PT appointment. Kind of a bummer but I can tell that my shoulder and back are so much stronger already. No pain or soreness from that long session on Saturday so I know it's worth it. Hopefully there will be some leftovers tomorrow.

 

Got out late morning with the incoming tide, had size, light crowd, awesome. Wind shifted to the south by the end of my sesh, giving it some texture, and the high tide was making it break farther on the inside, but it still looked fun as I was drying off (that first hour out though was clean and shoulder high, so fun). Life is good.
It's time I switched my diet up a little. I've put on some weight the last couple of months, I caught my profile in the mirror earlier and it startled me. I haven't really slacked with exercise, but I've been eating what I want, whenever I want, lots of pastries, pies, donuts, ice cream, tons of white bread and beer. Surprised I don't have diabetes, I actually feel pretty healthy for a fat fuck.

 

Aft in NJ

 

TS claudette's form showed up this morning. Gale winds and lightning, thunder passed thru last night. It looked better than what it was. You could float a block without a wave being presented. Sideshore waist +, few head hi ones. Went down by Folly pier, broke a leash. Walked back to house, grabbed another leash and drove to Washout. Most of them crumbled up on me. One i thought would've done me right, got rolled right from the drop. Unfortunate, but i could use the lil exercise i got over the wknd. Saturday's hangover still in the works. Hoping tomorrow morning does me right

 

That looks really nice!

I got out for dawn patrol this morning. Chest high sets but it was breaking weird and soft. Always nice to start the week with some surf, even if it's less than ideal.

 

Pretty freaking fun tonight.

 

dam good swell this morning. nice chest hi rollers, some did break soft. Rip to the dome this morning as i rushed outta the house messed with me pretty good haha. Still got plenty but my mind was reeling. Took the 6'9 loehr fish, cruised from south to north washout. Not much drift, good hour of awakening

 

Haha that's awesome. Definitely been there.

 

Clean surf and 2 to 3. Kasr couple of days. Right tide only but unexpected for sure. I feel sorry for all the peeps who never go look and only rely on data. Lucky for me there's a bunch of those peeps in Brevard county fl

 

Solid chest high day this afternoon around 3. N.e ground swell held on and just moving out of low tide. Perfect for my go to spot. Dodged all the rain drops and just a few other guys out.

 

Fun early a.m session on Sunday.
Probably chest high but chunky. At times it would all line up and it seemed like it was awesome but when I got out it didnt look that way looking back at it.
Seems like We be had waves for a solid week. Its late June and typically it would be flat so ima paddle into what ever I can get until it stops.

 

we have had a decent run at it in the past week as well. I did a 3 sess Saturday evening, tried a friend's Peli 7'2" squash tail, twin fin. Most of the waves have been a bit soft, but if you've found yourself at the peak you could ride that whitewash to another a wave set to bout ride to shore. Yesterday early afternoon had some drizzle from the TS warning we got, on and off. Crammed like sardines at s Washout, full vacancy N Washout. Had a handful of decent ones during that "lunch" on the 7'4" Hog Molly, twin fin been making the most of them. Going back out in several hours, not sure if it starts to fall off from here but i'm gonna do what antoine mentioned- get the fuk after it

 

Although we have had a decent run of summer surf , the ocean has been 50 ish . Its 90 plus on the beach , heat index pushing 100 a few blocks off the beach and an upwelling that refuses to abate .

 

The seas bumped up to 3 to 5 and the surf was easily head high. Got my a$$ handed to me a few times on late drops..bad positioning..but had some fun rides. Lots of turtles in the water waiting to come ashore and lay them eggs