who here has been surfing this week?

Some clean surf this a.m a punchy waist hi wave for us in Brevard co. Spent the first 2 hours of work surfing. It's good to work with people who don't notice or don't mind!

 

Surfed my local spot (Pumphouse) Friday evening with just the core crew in about waist to chest peaky little nugs as the tide dropped and made the wave break nicely. Got lots of waves and had fun chatting with the fellas, it was the first time in a month and a tad since it broke down here. Took my 6'8" Orion hybrid and it caught everything and did cutbacks and off the lips and threw some spray, even though conditions were on the weak side. Word was everyone was gonna be here Saturday.

Word. Saturday was packed with the entire pecking order. Scott McCrainells was tearing up little walls and Jon Gosman was doing 360 airs on chest hi ramps. The local boyz were all out, and I ran into the aged old surf bums I grew up with, still shredding. A whole flock of groms and mini groms were all over the inside. And a few hot mammas were getting nice rides on their LBs.

One of the old crew, BB, he was swimming out past the line up looking for small bodysurfables, and one of us made him go to the beach and get a 9' foamie and paddle out.

So he's on his belly getting his timing down, and I do like a fourth drift through the lineup and end up back at the old farts section at the end and there is a nice peak and he is on it and I'm right next to him and I get to watch him try to pop up, then crash and burn. He apologizes to me for taking my wave and I said it was your peak bro! Good times!

Next day my shoulders were so sore I could barely move. Life is goode!

 

Ahh , models looking excellent LB .

 

pumping short sec swell out there. Waters were real murky, def sumtin getting pushed onto our shores. Started raining not too long while i was out there, only one other person by the folly pier. Had to wait for them to form, but it was waist to chest peaky. Lines were short, but a good amount of power in the wave. Very promising forecast, might get out there again if wind doesn't get on it

 

Offshores , increasing swell

 

smaller than advertized but waist/stomach swell. Good amount of ppl already in the water at dawn patrol. Wasn't too bad on one side of 13th E, so i n a couple others stayed on that side. Took out longer boards, ended up taking 7'6 NSP. It did the job, couldn't get around too many of the closeouts anyways. Again, hoping for an evening sess but it wasn't in the works yesterday

 

Lots of swell in the water, and even more people! Where the f did they all come from and how did they find my (not so) secret spot?!?! haha.

I hit it at dawn and was already relegated to the second chance parking. Paddled out on my 5'6 fish on a mission to link up with some other locals. I couldn't spot any through the throng of people. I'm exaggerating a bit, I could still find some open real estate, but just south of where I was there was 1 sole surf fisher jamming up the lineup.

My competitive side starts to come out and I'm out there scrapping. All the tourists and fair weather surfers are watching me catch wave after wave. Mostly closeouts but I got the occasional runner. With over an hour left in the session a head back to the van and grab my 9'6. THIS was was the weapon of choice.

I paddle back out, 100ft past the lineup and wait for the cleanup sets. They were coming relatively consistent, maybe 10-15 minutes apart. When all the little board guys were scratching towards the horizon I was stroking into the chunkers.

Caught probably the biggest wave of the session towards the end. Easy 5 foot back on it. Got hoots from the all the old heads, and props on the paddle back out. I was stoked. Didn't have any trouble finding space after that.

On the way back home I grabbed an epic burrito from a breakfast food truck run by some OBXers (judging by their area code). They did NOT want to talk about the surf but I tried to lift their spirits with an optimistic forecast for the rest of the day.

I'm drained and still have a ton of work ahead of me. You can feel the tropical energy in town. Tomorrow COULD be even better. yew!

 

That's a sick pic curl, is that a rainbow on the right?

 

Got out today, chest to shoulder, pretty fun. Not super consistent but they were there, and as always at the spot, bigger sets will come with patience. Got a few where I was able to connect the sections and get some pretty long sick rides. But I did take one in too far, knew I wasn't going to make it past the inside boulders and had to bail. I just fixed the nose and pushed it in again on a big old rock.

 

son took the pano photo, the rainbow started a fun surf day . Overhead sets early , offshores , light crowd. Incoming will pump today .

 

The circus has arrived, spot I surfed yesterday is slammed. Went to a finicky spot and with the high tide wasn't that great, but not crowded. Checked the main spot again when I got out and it's pumping, already getting some size. Should be an interesting day.

 

Size will thin the crowd, no?

 

So far this swell has been a dud for my town. Wonky ground swell. Surfed a couple hours last night. This morning opted for the camera.

 

Unfortunately most of the surfers that come here for hurricane swell can actually surf. And when the out of towners outnumber locals they feel emboldened. It's all good though, what can you do, everyone wants to score, especially if you made a road trip for that purpose. Wave size actually decreased with the outgoing tide, but it is super glassy, and I'm sure the incoming tide will coincide with the increased energy as it moves it's way up the coast and get some size before we get outright slammed.

 

I went to take pics around 7 last night, fogged rolled in super thick right after. Lens on the camera was getting wet right away. It never really got as big as I thought it would, and stayed busy throughout the day.
Getting a lot of rain as I write this, some wind but nothing crazy, hope I don't lose power. But so far nothing crazy.

 

Looks a lot bigger and better where you were. This swell absolutely sucked in my home town. Atlantic City and points further north were much better this time around. I've got pictures from yesterday of my son on a similar sized wave but it was a fluke closeout. Was pretty much a chest high day here.

 

Full tide prior to paddling out , buoys pisting 5 ft 12 secounds

 

On Delmarva, this was one of those swells that stopped just short of getting to the size that thins the crowd. I mean, it thinned out some of the 11 year old soft top learners, but attracted every yahoo from DC and Baltimore. Friday evening was the best I found.

 

This morning settled down to just some glassy mellow chest high leftovers.