who here has been surfing this week?

Nothing big but super fun here the past two days.

 

I got the day off Friday to move my sht in to the new pad, should have some surf to get on while doing all that - shouldn't be a buncha stuff to move so my arms shouldn't be completely shot. Then planning on driving up the coast on Saturday, kinda following Sam. Likely up 17 to Wilmington area. From there i dunno where i'll end up that night. It's either 4 hrs to Nags Head or 4 1/2 to Virginia Beach (also hour closer to Baltimore where i plan on getting up with my bro, checking out his sorta new house). Otw back, I'm thinking i'll stop by Ocean City, MD. SurfCaptain showing promise on following Wednesday when i plan to trek back. Guess i'll be getting into neoprene pretty soon

 

The day started out chest high, glassy and playful then the wind messed it up. My son called me up to tell me it was getting good in the early afternoon so I ran up with the camera.

 

Bad photo but a great day with epic crowds

 

The epic crowds up your way explains why my zone was relatively uncrowded yesterday. During the session I posted pics from above there were only about 6 guys in the water including my son. My son, his friend and a guy on a sup were the only ones actually riding waves at this spot. Normally this spot would have 25 guys on it.

 

Sick pics! I have family stuff this weekend, missed out on the last solid swell and missing this one too. You guys had some size, wondering what our standout spots were doing.

 

Swell didn't make it to NE, ol Sam turned right too soon.

 

Sam swell was ok in DE. Delmarva sandbars are kind of jacked up so most of these groundswells are closing out badly. Still, Saturday was just insane for about 3 hours



then some funky wind, and then on the back end, another little window of leftovers on Monday. Managed to get a few fun waves and shoot a few pics of the boys.

 

Had a great ( for me ) session in Daytona on Sunday. For some reason it all lined up from 11 to 2. Much better than the morning session. Enjoyed a bbq on the beach with some super cool people. The menu was shrimp kabobs.. chicken.. ribs..and a delicious salad .

Worked Monday till 2 pm. Checked out one of the local cams and saw it looking chest maybe head high. Showed up at the spot and paddled out with a friendly face and surfed 2 ish hours before the wind got it.
Went home and made some garlic sausage with cauliflower and threw in a can of rotelle for color and taste.
Great start to surf season

 

Last weekend we got some little swell mixed with some choppe, maybe chest to head hi on the sets. Seemed like the only spot breaking was Juno Pier right at the north peak on the inside. Nice mixed bag of left and right peaks with some good sections to be had. I had my 6'8" Orion roundnose catch everything board and got lots of sweet nugs.

There was a couple 12 year old groms running the whole lineup, catching all the sets and busting airs, fun to watch while waiting my turn.

Had some local swordfish on the barbie with Jamo and ginger beer to wash it down that evening, or was it beef jerky and a warm Miller beer, can't remember after the purple and gold kush.

 

I surfed last Saturday morning at 8th st E on Folly. It was crowded from 5th to pier, absolute madhouse which is the direction of the drift. It was bout waist hi. Sitting on the inside, i was able to grab just bout everything and it seemed to be best cuz it was still pretty soft. Did a quick sess there, loaded more stuff from Folly house to new crib. Drove up to Surf City NC, surfed a lil south of the Ocean pier. There was only one younger guy out there, waves were shoulder to OH. He paddled out with, was a lotta paddling out to not get creamed by a big set. Only had a handful but got a good right to get some turns in. Did cut my foot a lil but from my fin. Had some bigger fish flapping behind me, so was bout to call it then saw two younger kids paddle so i stayed a lil inside. Made it to Virginia beach that night, exactly what i imagined it to be - a certain kinda trashy. Booked a room on the beach, paddled down the street which was 12th st i wanna say. Lotta ppl were by the pier on 15th, but i saw it being quick and manageable in front. quick rides bout stomach hi that i was able to go left to get under or right to ride them out for a hot minute. Headed to Baltimore after that and didn't surf otw down since it wasn't producing much all down the coast early on the week. Did go by couple surf shops in Wilmington, hoping to buy a mid-length thrasher. No success. After it all, broken rail and fix on tail of fish got undone. It's ready for me at Ocean surf shop on Folly

 

Finally got some today, forgot it was a holiday and it was busy as hell. Only a couple spots local with favorable winds, as soon as I found parking and was out of my car, a homeowner on that block made a bee line towards me cursing up a storm. Luckily I knew him, he recognized me and went on a tangent about everyone parking like douche bags, parking on his grass, parking the wrong way, ect… stating if there were an emergency an ambulance would never make it down that road. And he is right. So if you like the spot with long lefts that's on a residential road, and you are not from here, you need to start parking at the beach and make the long walk. He is well known in this town and I'm sure this subject will come up in town hall meetings. There is another spot that gets it bad too, but this road is narrow as it is, then you get a bunch of big ass vans parking on either side making it a nightmare for people that live on that block. Respect the locals.
Not a big wave count considering I was out for a while, way too busy and didn't want to paddle battle then slalom my way through the inside. Was lucky to pick off a few bombs, went right which I love at this spot, avoiding the flotsam on the inside left, pulling into closeout inside barrels at the end, it was good.

 

Wind backed down enough yesterday to make rideable conditions... still had really good size but a little confused.

This morning is much cleaner, but smaller. Lotta guys out on my way into work.

 

Central and south of me Florida has been getting some good surf.
Yesterday morning was long clean chest high peelers but last night the size went to overhead and a funky double up on everything. The double drop makes me rethink directions of take off. Most landing s ended abruptly..
The few days before we're certainly a good time all weekend.

Good read on y'all's surf stories

 

Knee to waist high nuggets yesterday, weather was too nice not to get wet. Supposed to hit 78 degrees today, no waves but I might go for a swim after work.

 

It was supposed to be building and ridable north windchoppe today and at high tide this morning it looked promising but shorepoundy, so I checked it this arvo on the incoming tide and it was el crappo one to two foot dribblers and no swell just choppe. F ing Monday all day!

But last Monday was sweet. Had a paddle out on the Sunday before at a local beachside civic center, and it was small and kinda ridable and the kids were having a good time but I chose to body surf before the paddle out for Bill Keeton, one of the founders of the Jupiter Noserider's and the Palm Beach County Surf Museum. The next morning before the wind got on it I went back and it was the only spot breaking and it was good, about chest to head high peaks and fast takeoffs and bowly make or break sections. Some shredders tearing it up, and a few of my local crew were up there and having a blast.

I ate it on the first wave, legs too stiff, got loose and in a groove and made the next bunch and got some good snaps and under the lip turns to drops to down the line more sections from the inside mid break to the shorie. Got out whilst on a roll before the tide got too high and ended up being shore pound again.

Had lunch at Twisted Tuna - 3 blue fin tuna tacos with black beans, salsa and rice, washed down with iced tea (no booze! - too early brahs) - deliciously fresh, spicy and sweet! Life is goode!