Yesterday afternoon at my local spot I looked at the cam and it showed potential so I cut work off around 3 and hit the incoming push. It was dead low when I got there, only 1 guy out on a 8' mini LB getting a thigh high soft shoulder to mush from the mid break to the beach. I scoped it out and saw every 5 minutes a rideable set would come in, the second wave the best. So I paddled out on my Orion 6'8" fat semi-round nose flying saucer and got a couple mushburgers and then the tide started to push and it got almost decent on a peak here and there, waist hi max but...I got 7 waves, the last with a nice floater/turn on the closeout - kinda felt weightless and multi dimensional for an old fart. By the time I called it quits there was a pack of groms out, and one shredder getting speed and quick snaps on the inside sections. Great to be young, but I'm still stoked and young at heart. 7 crappy waves, but they were 7 great waves if ya'll know what I mean. We are a very lucky tribe. Life is goode! Cheers mates!
Friday was super fun... a bit on the smaller side... only about belly high... but super clean rights and light offshore winds. Rode the log and was getting the super long noserides. Just crazy. At one point I just started laughing out loud.
Wasn't the best day of the year here. The Larry swell was a hard one to top. It was darned good though.
nice pics, Mitchell. It was wonder and awe for about 5 seconds then just sadness realizing i haven't had a wave to ride in a month. Supposed to be windy waist hi swell thursday, and it's supposed to pour. Not sure if i'll be going, but i prolly should just to get over that hump
Monmouth County was on FIRE yesterday after the cleanup mid afternoon. Absolute BOMBS, and makable barrels.
big OBSF, live - there's a couple of takers out there http://www.larrysvacationwebcams.com/cams/SFOceanBeach.php?VZ=Yes
PICS ARE SICK! Working long hours, leaving pre dawn and coming in after dark, no surfy surfy for me. Have no idea what it was like up here except I lost power at some point and I have a big mess in the yard to clean up. Living vicariously through you guys.