who here has been surfing this week?

We got a north wind blowing but a hit a protected spot in an hour. Ride report forthcoming

 

Shot this speed blur right before dark.

 

Firing this morning. Super crowded. Good size and good conditions. I'm keyboard surfing...

 

Another speed blur from last night.

 

Excellent color CJ , surfed in LB s territory today . Long racy rights , pumping with am epic crowd . The freaking current was epic keeping the crowd in full a paddle mode .

 

The barrel shots and a lot of the stuff I post is my kid. The sunset speed blur is a local ripper named Nate Garza.

 

Last night before dark.

 

Last pic is killer CJ, nice shot.

 

Made a trip to Tybee island Georgia and to my surprise found some surf.
So ..me being totally unprepared for surf I figured I could tough out the colder water with no rubber
I went to 2 different surf shops and couldn't rent a board( even though the signs says Surfboard rentals here)
Ended up finding a POS on the third try went to the main break just past the Tybee pier and got plenty of waves albeit gutless. There were a few fun ones though. I got out about an hour after getting my first wave and man..I was cold all night!
Anyway if any of y'all have an opportunity to surf Tybee ....don't. Jk. It's always good to log some wave time

 

That's awesome you scored Antoine, even a knee slapper somewhere different can feel adventurous.
Glad to report I actually got some today, very unexpected. I have my kid, and it's been 2 days of volleyball tryouts for her, and this league is no joke, hope she makes the cut. Then grocery shopping, laundromat, and too much time dealing with work and customers for a Sunday. But I drove by the spot real quick, almost hoping it was flat, but it was chest at least and looked fun. Damn.
I told the kid I needed water therapy, brought her out for the last hour and a half of light. I usually don't do this, I value my time with her and feel surfing can be a little selfish, plus she's 12 and I don't feel comfortable leaving her alone for more than a half hour or so.
A little more texture at the very end but still fun, after the crowd thinned out I got a bunch of nice super long rights. She was a trooper, took pics and vid and looked for cool rocks and shells. About to do homemade cheeseburgers with fried potato slices on the side. Microwave the potato's until soft, slice into thick pieces, season them up then fry them in a pan. I love adding chopped up mushrooms and onions with the ground beef for burgers, just like my mama did. Mama burgers rule.

 

That's the good stuff. You made some good choices .
Back home in FL today and scored super clean and long peeling waist high lefts and rights. A little stall at the top helped line the wave up. Took the 9'6 lb out for some groovy lengthy rides.

 

ahh, french fries...Yes, i've had them before

 

I slice them the width so they are round and thick, maybe 3 per spud. I call them freedom potato's.

 

Slice them about 1/4" thick longways... toss in some olive oil, garlic powder, S&P, and thyme... and throw them on the grill.

 

Didn't get to score friday during lunch hour, cuz this dude's in the office til 5. Leaving up to Raleigh this Friday early for a wedding, may get some waves if low tide and wind cooperate up in IOP. I kinda doubt it, but should be lingering around Sunday on my way back down. May run to Wilmington, 2 hr trek from Raleigh, to catch dropping lo tide (hi tide 9am Sunday i think). Still looking to buy another board too, so may get to score on both (crossing fingaz)

 

Went out for a DP sess this morning, buddy joined up as well. Scooted to 13th by Washout, took the LBs. Not a lotta ppl in the water, kinda surprising cuz it was expected clean and waist hi. It was stomach to chest, long lines, crumbly so a bigger board would be the call but with the right volume on a short stick it would have been fun as well. Put on the 4/3 and booties, and had a nice right, right off the rip, to drop the shoulder and glide/hands on the wave. Seemed to be the start of what was a nice hour sess. Some wahines in the water but they weren't doing well and the couple guys were not doing much either - one shorty, one LB. My buddy had plenty and so did I, left feeling pretty good before hitting the road later today. Talked to a guy who has some OFishL fins I could buy. Hoping to hear back from a guy in Wilimington with a 6'6 board I'd like to get my hands on. Still hoping Sunday turns up over there, bring on the wknd!