who here has been surfing this week?

Well then there's this...
Windy conditions seas about 10'
High tide in a shallow area that doesn't hold a solid swell.
Went out at first light and saw a bunch of old heads bobbing around and some younger guys with shorter boards on the inside having a blast.
I always hear about bringing the right board but I look at the conditions and surf the board I bring and mostly I make a good decision.
Caught some fun ones but honestly I'd guess it was chest high and crumbly until you caught the reform and then it was a helluva ride but that paddle out will test you on a longboard.

After 2 ish hours I packed it up and headed home.
Should have stayed longer as the girlfriend has me out shopping for crap either I don't want or I don't need.

 

I was outta the gate yesterday with bout 25% of life in the batteries. By the time i got out to Wrightsville, i was at 50. Hungova and determined, took the 6'4 alchemist, turned into a twin fin to get loose out der. Prolly not the right call, but did manage on some stomach hi crumbly stuff. It was going off the hi tide, so it seemed to get betta but an hour in and i was beat. Small drift, few ppl in the water but not alotta talking heads. Had a few decent ones, but would've been nice if i didn't lose my phone in typical wedding fashion. Missed out on dat 6'6 board, but did get to meet a restorer/shaper in Raleigh. Chris of Horizon East Surfboards does ding repair, restores, shapes boards. He hooked me up with a couple OFishL fins, made a trade off. Dude was super nice, retired, and said his side biz is good, been going for 15 yrs

 

lotta driving, but i did manage to get most of my sht together for work today and strapped the LB and hog molly. Went with the LB at the washout. Pretty clean waist hi, and seemed to be building. Not too crowded, found my section. Few of the rides were like 50 yds, so def clicked and i got plenty. Last run at it before the holidays. Enjoy ya'll turkey feasts, belly up

 

Dang man you're all over the north state haha. Def let me know when you make it up to WB so we can grab a brew.

 

Fun little sesh this morning. Got out an hour after dead low to some( fun for me) stomach high punchy waves. Rode my 7' custom as a twin ( it's a 5 fin set up)
Not very many peeps out cept for some sups who were just kinda nomadic so no problem there. Warmish morning @7 a.m @ 65f. Probably 70 ish when I got out a few hours later. Clear skis slightly offshore

 

It's been clean, it's been mushy, it's been big ass way way OH, and some lovely clean as a whistle chest to shoulder high perfecto groundswell LB lines on the outside reef at incoming push, and eat it or get barreled jacking inside shortboard only peaks over the rocks waist to shoulder high duck and weave and boom! Secret spot(s) rule! The kooks drool.

Life is goode fellas! Been too busy surfing and eating and just got my MMJ card so it's been a whirl. Hope all ya'll and you'ze guys are doing fine and well. It's gonna be a good season down here in the 6th Borough. Cheers mates!

 

Way to rub it in. Here we are in an extended flat spell as we transition from fall and head into winter. Water and air temps have dropped. Moving forward a good 4/3 or a 5/4 will be needed along with all the accessories. At least there are fish around.

 

No worries mates it's gone as flat as my first junior high skool girlfriend. For days now. No relief in sight except my right hand. But it's sunny out and I swam a mile today just to detox from the sweets and the fried foods. (new MMJ card has given me the munchies) Life is goode! Next swell is always on the horizon - somewhere...

 

Blow out tides , offshores and small waves

 

I was pretty stoked on the idea of that place until I saw the dismal wave it produces.

 

A very dystopian adventure . Walking into a futuristic looking mall , white tile floors , white walls , past the skating rink , snow hill you enter the wave pool . Son number 2 rented it for his big brother and his local crew . It was fun , and yes CJ it was challenging !

 

Before it opened I had visions of an indoor Waco.

 

The wave was never a priority inmo , they have 4 floors of apts they rent for 1600 per day . Dont hold me to the numbers , but daily revs from the water park are 125 gs per day . Renting the pool for 2500 / 2 hrs perhaps with 4 sessions grosses 10 gs . A more wave friendly pool shape would have gone a long way in reaching that good wave goal .

 

Hey all .. been getting some thigh to waist hi on the consistent. Looks good for the next few days but u gotta sand recone for sure. Mostly been riding the performance lb

 

This week? nah. This month? nah. I might just cut my hair and sell the van...

Just kidding. Super busy with new job, new house, starting a new business. Looking forward to 1/1 when I can stop working 12 hour days and maybe take up surfing as a new hobby.

 

Last night before dark there was a glassy shin high wave. My youngest was desperate enough to go surf it. Just wasn't big enough to get me into a 5mil.