who here has been surfing this week?

Jobos was cranking 80s rock tunes when we stopped by. Nothing rideable, just a tight beach full of greasy ppls. They party hard there tho, saw multiple folks cranking out wine bottles ~1pm. We stayed classy and ordered them extra large flavored pina colada frozen dranks

 

Cane Garden Bay is a really great wave... especially for regular footers. And you can stand on the rocks and get pics just like this one as dudes cruise by. These days guys boat in from the other islands when it's on... so there's a crowd factor to deal with literally every decent swell. The maniacs take off at the top where it's most sketchy, and the average joes and hoes sit just inside. What a great wave...

I knew a guy that had a board building operation there overlooking the bay... Dave Carson of Cane Garden Bay Surfboards. He and his brother built boards there for many years, then his brother took off and started what you now know as Kane Garden Surfboards. I got a few stories about that dude...

 

Chest to shoulder, quick sec foamy waves. Frigid water, got bombed on first paddle out. No drift, not choppy but a bit disorganized on where n when it'd be breaking. Took the new used Sunday 6'2 board. Def bouyant, manueverable as expected, felt like a rock going down the wave but that might've been the cold doing that. Was what i expected. Had a head hi right on a quick built up curl, done-zo after that one

 

A Torcia photo , stand up barrels and OFFSHORES

 

Went Friday after work. Took the same Sunday board, picked up a buddy in the process. It was pretty crowded, we ventured north washout. Pretty consistent northerly drift. Found it easy to paddle in, but buddy told me he got pounded by the chest hi wonkiness. You had to pick your spots, i had a good handful to get a better sense of that board. Was bout to paddle back out for another 10-15 min, but i drifted a block down looking for some kinda route n just figured it aint happening. Def didn't feel too bad bout the sess, knew i was gonna come back Saturday morning.
Was a diff animal, much cleaner and beginner friendly waist hi's. Took out the 6'9 Loehr for some bouyancy, but it was a lot more fun than i anticipated. Had a couple hours to soak it in, water wasn't too bad - hoodie on the paddle out and off on rides in. The occ chest hi's and one outliner of a head hi caught several of us off guard, but the crowds were manageable. No crazy good rides, but the sess was great

 

Those winds were somethin' else... Wasn't that big a few miles north.

 

I kind of blew it that day. Watched the cameras at Manasquan inlet and didn't see anyone catch a wave.....just guys getting blown off the back trying. I wrote it off and went to work. It sucked in my town anyway and everyone I know who got it that day drove North.

 

3 hr window before the nw set in CJ , vid on instagram standing tall , asburyparksurfers

 

Yea. It sucked in my back yard and was good an hour+ drive from my home. What I was seeing on the cameras up North wasn't worth the drive when I was looking. The clips on Instagram are how I know I blew it......but then again one of my friends that is a very good surfer posted a video of an epic barrel he got up there.......only one problem......that was his only ride in 2 hours in the water and 3 hours of driving round trip.

 

Great little south swell yesterday... Shoulder high with clean conditions and offshore winds... and 70 degrees!

 

Fun day LB , thought it was going to pump . Early push had some juice which faded into a clean aft of barrels .

 

Maybe another little pulse this afternoon... but the wind. The wind... yikes.

 

We've had a good run of swell and I've been surfing a lot but... I've been noticing in my area soft tops are everywhere and mostly unskilled peeps on them to add to the b.s now I'm seeing these godamm hydrofoils. Now I realize there's a shit ton of talent and work that goes along with that but it really triggers me when you're on the wave....already on the wave and they come from behind you and EF it all up. I'd like to catch up with one of those foul guys and see whats on their mind. Any way the water is 73 air temp yesterday was 86 and yes I tried to paddle down a way from them but there too fast

 

Is it ok to hate you now? LOL

 

Pulse came thru. Took a newly acquired 7'4 WRV to South Washout yesterday after work. Borught another newly acquired 6'8 Barrel boart (not spending that much chz, just grabbing at will lately) but forgot there wasn't a leash string. Remembered late last night I did have an extra in the trunk. There were LBs and shortyz, waves were a lil angled but mostly chest hi, rare shoulder. Lil drift south. I had a good handful rides to shore. Probably got a dirty dozen at the end of it, but I was very pleased with the board (lil heavier than i thought) as the nose was sawed off a lil but it caught dem well. That WRV board will be a temp replacement for my hog molly which is on its last leg. Did remember having one right that i cruised for like 20 yards before i just did some rando backside with two hands clinched on the rail, put that caboose out der, then let go and make a couple snaps to shore. No gloves on that evening sess, still somewhat chilly - wasn't going bootless.
This morning a buddy ventured out with, took the Barrel boart out to S Washout. Clean waist hi's that built up to chest cuz of incoming hi tide. The boart wasnt' tailored for these kinda waves, they were pretty soft like yesterday whereas they would wane down after hitting that point of inflection. Just wanted to give it a try, had some decent drops. No long rides really like yesterday, but not a bad sess with another heaping of rides served up. I'm looking forward to take off the spacesuit, bring on the warmness

 

I found a protected spot away from the wind about 2 to 3 not clean but hey who needs clean.
Found a cool spot in cocoa beach that serves sofritos the place is called tiny turtle.

Good surf is coming Monday, gotta get the gf to take some pics for the forum

 

missed a lil window yesterday evening. DIdn't have my gear with me after a disc golf round, buddy's place was otw so he got 45 min out there. Said stomach to chest, clean and fun. Lo tide was 4pm, so wasn't sure if it would've worked but did. Have my sht with me now tho! Gonna be some wind today, looking like tomorrow for dawn patrol. Got all these Euro managers in town this week, need to sidestep my time around here

 

stomach to chest clean drops, occ shoulder. Had the 6'2 Sunday boart with me, used that over the barrel boart. Nobody on the block, south washout this early AM. So nice to know sun is out in full force like right after 6, daylight savings time will mess that up. Was thi hi textured and mopey everywhere else outside of washout, which is kinda strange an hour after lo tide. Was pretty loose this AM, got a good bit of rides given easy paddle out n long drawn out swell runs. After a bakers dozen, i got a decent ride - not many lines out but good drops to practice on you could say- 6 ppl paddled out at same time n noticed the lineup would've put me in the rocks. Took the sign, exited early to have my sht together at work. Not a bad morning, and the no booties was pretty good til like 45 min in when i numbed up a bit

 

Life finally let me get out yesterday, first sesh in god knows how long. A few out at the popular spot, I took a look at another spot and it was chest average with a few bigger sets rolling through, and only one other guy out and clean as hell, better than the first spot. Inactivity really has hurt me, between the long walk to get there and a long paddle had me feeling all of my fifty years. I could not have asked for an easier day, plenty of time between bigger sets to get my breath, no paddle battles so I could pick and choose. Got a bunch of super long lefts, I didn't exactly feel loose and I'm sure I looked like shit but the stoke was real.

 

Surfed for the first time in about a month (maybe more) yesterday. Been so damn busy lately but those details are for another thread.

The plan was to ditch work at 4, but email after email after email had me leaving at 5:15. Still working from home so I hop in the van and 15 minutes later i'm steps from the sand.

There isn't a single soul parked at the spot and I'm afraid there's a good reason for that. I suit up anyway and walk over the dunes. I see some waves feathering on the outside and breaking in the middle section. Did not look great but I was getting wet regardless.

As I'm paddling I notice the waves are farther out than I thought. Get close to the lineup and those little feathering waves are about stomach high. Ended up snagging a few decent rides. Not bad for being fat and out of shape.