Was able to get on it this morning. Chest hi, bout sideshore. Didn't have a good go at on the first run, but next time i put in i was able to get a better hang of it, mostly rights. I bruised my upper thi on like the first ride too, maybe pulled sumtin but feels like a bruise. Dunno how. Tricky. Glad to get in there regardless tho, going tomorrow for leftovers. Hope ya'll got sumthing out of that front
UnferleD, It's pushing in down here in FL but we have a southern wind pushing in also . should be interesting tomorrow
Shot for a little bit on Friday morning. Light wasn't great and a rain squall was moving in. Such a good day.
Strange swell , a super high tide early with sets double overhead made for a low wave ratio . As the tide drop the swell became one of the better days of the season .
Glad to say i got to surf all wknd. Had to wait till Saturday evening after 3:30 lo. Took a quick look at the pier by the cam, saw the lines and made a run for it. Water was mish mash all by the pier when i got there, had to trek it to the washout to see some form. Turned into waist to chest hi leftovers, had its pockets. Only a handful of us, one guy mentioning how he figured it would turn up again - thinking that was the mindset of all of us out there, just happy to be out there/"right". Switched btwn 6'2 sunday board and 6'9 loehr. Had the LB on the hood, saved it for Sunday. Woke up late, devastated and violated from Duke's loss, packed my sht and got to the after hi tide party. Was pretty packed with LB'ers, thi to waist hi. Pretty peaceful out there, headed a lil north to avoid the crowd. Plenty to pick off of, didn't have much trouble paddling around ppl and finding a route. My LB was super dirty, must've been at least 5 months since i rode it. Arms feel fine today and no injury,board dings so life is good. Maybe a mid week run at it if i'm lucky aka take a long lunch before it goes pretty pedestrian flat for a while
Thanks. It was a strange morning. Got chased out by rain. Got some crazy landscapes with the wild lighting looking away from the ocean. I left the house with only my 300mm F4 on the camera. Wish I'd have taken my backpack. The storm clouds in the background look like blue sky but its an illusion created by the reflection of the sunrise bouncing off of the ocean. For about 10 minutes there was some of the highest contrast lighting I've ever seen. Rainbow shot taken with the cell phone as the rain started.. Kicking myself for leaving rest of my kit at home.
Just put this together with a gif maker I found on the web. Need to add a few more frames at the beginning and end and perhaps change the crops a little bit but this came out cool.
Not Wrightsville beach. Too sharky. Lots of brain eating amoebas in the water too now that the water is warming up.