who here has been surfing this week?

Very similar to yous guyses stories here in SENC.

Watched waves break all week but the tides and swell direction was turning me off. Finally got some Sat and Sun. Plenty of good waves to go around. Very sunburnt.

 

I am 22 years old I love sports and cool cars

 

Surfed yesterday. Went to my normal spot and that nor-easter really took a toll on the sandbars. The beach is like 35 feet wide and super steep. Our small swell sandbars are completely gone. Drove around and eventually found a spot with some sand and breaking waves.

Trigger warning; I mention how much I hate my local government: As an aside, my local beach normally gets a re-nourishment ever 4 years or so. We were scheduled to get the sand this year but the gubermint ran out of money! Somehow, even after raising parking fees from 50 cents an hour to $5 an hour, and tax money coming in from the entire county, these folks managed to spend until the island is in debt and that's before needing to pay for re-nourishment. Keep in mind that the entire "board of alderman" are old-money rich white dudes (who all campaigned on how conservative they are). They eventually got a grant (begging the state for a handout after they screwed up and spent all the money, how conservative of them) to pay for fixing the beach but now we have to wait til next spring to get our sand. Great job guys!

Fortunately I can hop on my boat and go find a break that isn't completely f***ed by decades of filling in wetlands and inlets to build McMansions and plant invasive plant species.

 

headhi, that shts fukd up man. IOP created their own "republic" here because of the parking, trying to declare Palm Road as a state road to enforce state made parking spots. My Folly Beach is making sidewalks, building a new pier and repleneshis every other year. Sometimes they do some old, stupid sht but for most part they keep folly funk funky

 

I just want to throw this up that I hate the north even if sometimes the waves are better than the south. I miss hurricane swells where I dont spend $50 for parking and the beach has no cigarette butts on it

 

Where are you again, Peajay? Was it Maine?... can't recall.

 

First time in forever I've checked the site, glad you guys are still surfing and posting. I got out yesterday morning for a dawn patrol, first time in years. It was a lot of fun, waist to chest with only a few out, got some really good ones. Drift was tough though, could only relax a minute or so before having to paddle to stay in the spot, or literally go around the point to the south side ( which was working too).
Work is hectic, life is hectic. Not home much anymore, I feel the tourists enjoy my town more than I do. So it goes....
I might take my kid night fishing tonight. There is some sick meteor shower supposed to happen.
Keep posting fellas, with all the craziness it's nice to pop on and see you guys here. And Betty, hope she is still around.

 

I'd rather be warm than cold anyday out, been rocking that 4/3, it is still holding up!!

 

I do appreciate sharp eyes. Rode several models, def do well on speed. I had a great day Saturday. Friday evening had potential but i was on benadryl and buddy wasn't particularly optimistic. Heard Saturday from a couple surfers out that they had a couple and got out, guess it did stay a bit disorganized. Saturday was cleaner and chest hi. I got to the Washout around 7am and it was almost packed all the way up. I parked under the North Washout cam, took out the 7'6 WRV. Needed a fun shape to get the best of it, and the board churned out the buttery waves. I'd drift up north for a few blocks, then walked down South Washout until i ended up drifting at same spot. Took out the 6'9 loehr, walked down South and again had another sess. It was good, i was getting hungry. Just a solid day with plenty of rides and of course a couple almost collisions but it didn't take away from how nice it was. No particular rides coming to mind, but it was a good exodus from an otherwise unfriendly poison ivy filled week

 

Not exactly a surf but I took a shortboard and went for a nice paddle. Water got pretty warm. Probably close to 70. My plan this year is to do a lot of paddling even if there aren't waves. Coming off of a few years of injury and hoping to be ready this year when the tropics heat up.

 

I have always wanted one of Marco's boards, but I think my next custom is either going to be another XTR or a Chemistry.

Definitely some of the best in Dago

 

Got the first storm of the season yesterday. Sir Alex whipped up earlier than what was expected, coming thru the gulf. Slept off my hungover and bolted out the door around 9am. Grabbed the 6'3 Alchemist and scooped up my buddy who got to try his new board (can't remember exactly what it was tbh, but a fat 5'8 boart that's going to replace his slower Sweet Potato. Jam packed at Washout, got a spot up North which was fine cuz of northernly winds pushing ya down south. The paddle out could have been a bastard if ya didn't wait out the sets, bout shoulder to head hi. I waited. Took a minute to grab one, but then i got a hang of where the line was. Had a sweet left on first sess, big drop and cradle then powered down the 2nd lull to carve up a bit and finish it off on a backwards belly drop. Second session had a nice right that again got me over the 2nd lull and was able to just carve up and down while hanginng for dear life. Just quiikc conditions and decent lines, some in and outs which was expected but quick lil rides. Leash knot broke, so that evnded it a bit early but all in all 2 hours of good times. Buddy and I was content. Maybe leftovers tomorrow if they're around

 

i took an extended lunch break yesterday to get the rest of the remaining Alex swell. From thi to waist plus. Semi textured, took the LB. Had no problems getting by and it gave an inkling that you can prolly pull a midlength into play. But as for the LB, i got deep angled and down low to catch some nice turns into and out of the break. Trying the midlength for last 20 min but it wasn't worthy. Too short to make anything of it, but i saw some ppl with em - didn't do right by me