who here has been surfing this week?

Hate to derail the greatest thread in history but evag getting a monster zucchini from the neighbor deserves post of the century

 

Couldn't agree more. All in fun evag. Keep posting surf stories.

Got a decent surf in this morning. Waist maybe bigger and off shore winds. An east angle made for long walls. Not a ton of juice but enough for the small wave shortboards. Mid lengths did real well. I took out a beater 6' quad hybrid. Fuller fishy outline but it's a diamond tail. Neat board with good rails. I like riding it in a good swell after being on a LB for while in little waves. Whenever I ride it after being on smaller boards it feels like a barge.

The waves were good enough. 1st one was way behind the peak and had some sweet cover before a good wall to work with. Rest of them were pretty much like that. Long enough rides and a sweep made it easier to get out and walk around. Dolphins in the line up. This is frigging long island?

One thing happened that I wanted to bring to the group. SUP dude got one on the out side way early. He had it. His wave but technically even though I was closer to shore I was deeper. Close and even behind the peak. I went anyway. Got through some mush and stayed in the pocket. Pretty good ride with a couple of good cutties. He was aware of me but he wasn't the cut back kind of guy and rode way down the line paddling the whole time. No words or funny looks or nothing. But I was close enough to see I bothered him( sprayed his feet at least once). He certainly didn't bother me but maybe it was a douche move to go. What do you guys think?

 

Agreed. I mean i could of just let it go by. Had plenty of rides already but the peak was just so smooth and buttery and i new he would squander it. Didn't have to scratch to get into it. Just turn and burn. and because he was on it I had to really stay in the pocket my turns had more to em.

A dude gets greedy sometimes.

 

It looks like you're flying right next to them.

There was a wave yesterday morning early & I got there at 1st light. Found 5 youngsters on it already whooping and having a good time. Left them to it. That spot with just your friends on it is a treat. got back there in the afternoon and washed off the work day with some sloppy knee high, tide to full but at least I got wet ones.

Need some legit swell around here. And when is going to rain?

 

Same here. Garden is hurting. I got a fig though. We're part of a farm share and they are hurting too.
But if you look at the bright side. I really haven't had to mow. And the mosquitoes haven't been bad.

 

So after a pretty good drinking/eating session, We had desert. and I had a double expesso. That gave me the energy needed to get geared up and ready for a dawn surf/fish check. I would be solo as we had a thing in the afternoon and the kids weren't in to waking up early. Packed some rations and set up the coffee pot. a 3ft at like 8 second pulse from a good direction, a off shore winds combined with a pretty fat tide made me put the LB in. For no particular reason, I put the fish in too. All I had to do when I woke up is jump in and go. wanted to hit the rack early but the expresso was working and ended up watching that new Game of Thrones show.

So of course I slept through dawn. But I still got to the beach early enough. Pulled up to shore and see legit clean waist high waves coming in with some pushing chest. Happy to have the fish. As i pulled it was so clean and white. NO WAX ON IT! Like a bad dream. Did a quick field wax up and headed out. Warm water, good waves and not too crowded. The higher tide meant no rip so paddling around was easy. Got a bunch of waves right off. The higher tide mushed out the inside a bit so just put everything into the 1st hit. Went vert and made spray. Was a real easy summer surf. That it was a surprise is what made it. We have so few anymore

After a couple hrs the tide filled in. I switched to the LB after a coffee break. Found the tide and the back wash added a wonk on the wave and I kept getting bunted off the board and chasing the thing. just couldn't kick out clean. Gave up after just a few waves. Was seeing the mid length guys started having more luck. I gave them their waves. I set up with the fishermen. Even used and umbrella and ate breakfast. After, I took a walk with a rod and caught 1 stinking postage stamp of a fluke and a bad sun burn. So walked back ,screened up, put on my hat and went back and long boarded the lower tide for an hr. Things calmed down and I got some good ones and cooled off.

Satiated and my shoulders sore, I packed up and headed home. The neighborhood party we went to ended up being a surprise to the homeowner put on by there college age kids. They did it by what they knew best. It was a kegger with 2 6ft hero's. Pacifico. Hey Hey.

Going to rest these shoulders as good swell has to be on the way.