who here has been surfing this week?

I got some today too. Got there at dawn, trying for a power hour before some obligations. It was small, sloppy and fat at 1st. As I watched a while, it started to get a little better. Was just getting to the point of good enough when my window shut. A couple dudes caught a few decent ones on middies before I headed out and all my homies were heading in as I left.
I Got my obligations taken care of fast if not with some attitude. I was a little short with people but I got done quick and sprinted back for a long lunch go out.

Raced up to the spot and found the lower tide helped the swell heaps. Chest high and clean. I had packed a real shorty but the word was it mushed in spots so took out the fish. There was a big sweep. Timed the paddle out right and swept into the spot as a set hit it. Turned and burned on a good one. Sweet drop in, bottom turned, got fairly vert and and cranked a good turn on the top. Had to do a wiggle after cause the fins skated out a little but got into the next section for the same set up. After, the wave slowed for a good moment and had to use that rounded v on my tail to roll in and out into the inside for another run. This time it was just a race to the floater. I honestly could've gone home after that one alone.

I didn't though. The ride was long and the sweep was real So I walked around, timed the go out and pretty much did the same over and over for a couple of hrs. Got home, made a straight up Dagwood of a sandwich. A cup of coffee after and finished out the day. Was way more dude after surfing.

So there are waves to be had hope you get some Earl.

Earl: Ain't no use running, fool! I know where your momma parks your house!

 

Oh the grumps. Dudes make it hard not to have em.

Bagged the early morning yesterday. My shoulders hurt and Figured I'd do another midday go out. Got a text about 7 that it was better than the day before but more crowded. So started working with burning biscuits in my brain. Thinks piled up. Meetings bagged the day before needed to be had. All kinds of IT mishaps. Just BS all day. Ended up getting to the beach around 5. Good if not fat with the end of the incoming. I ended up having a good surf. Crowd was annoying but not aggressive. Used the fish and caught a bunch of chest high waves with plenty of length for a decent ride. The fatness made a really user friendly ride. Had time to do stuff on it. stayed on it for a bit and took a sweet sun set ride to my home town to help out with the old church feast. serving beer for Jesus. Had a eggplant hero.

Hit it early this morning and the insta-crowd had been informed. The full moon tides are taking a toll on this swell up here. Still kind of fat and the crowd was thick but I nabbed a couple of good ones right away. My grump face was in full effect. Today the swell had more of a pulse. You had to hurry in spots to make some sections. If you did the ride was long and had some great spots to kick up some spray. As the tide filled in the better waves became rare and I was too gassed to be hassling for waves. I left with a low wave count. Quality of quantity aside, I was not satisfied. Did my duties and headed back mid day. Low tide, not many heads in the water and still pretty good. Still a fish wave really. Just went out and upped my wave count off the outer bar. The inner bar was dry. Same type of surfing as before. Long rides but stopped short before the end of the dry bar. surfed straight in there and did the walk around. To miss it put you in a dead zone trench that was hard to paddle out of or get to the beach. Just rinsed and repeated for a little over an hr and headed back to the "office". Back to the feast tonight. I will miss the sunset session which may be good but my arms are shot. Aleve tonight and another go tomorrow. The crowd will be awful. I'm satiated so maybe I'll sit outside the main peak and wait for the bombs that swings wide. Take it shore and have some coffee, BS and try again.

Earl the storm is been good so far. Kind of a chill. The water is tropic warm. The air is crisp in the morning and doesn't heat up much more mid day. Suited in the morning, shorts after. Would like to see something a little more death defying. Something to take a step up into.

hope you dudes are getting waves. hope you post up too
PJ

 

I also had a low wave count high quality surf on Saturday. Didn't see a point of getting out early as the crowd would be thick all day. Rolled up at the crack of 8 or so. Had a fairly full tank of good waves so I took my time and watched it for a while. There waist to chest high sets coming through with a high frequency that most were going for and there was no etiquette at all. Then a larger set showed on the outer bar that looked like it would swing wide but didn't. There was a big scramble towards it but everyone who went towards it missed. A few cooler heads stayed where they were and got the goods. I watched the clock until another set rolled through. Finished my coffee grabbed the fish again and stood at the paddle out and waited. Jumped in and swept right into one of the good sets. Two strokes and in. It was a long sweet ride all the way. Headed in for the walk around and just did it again. Two great set waves and I was good. I noticed on the last one I was a bit behind on the fish so after a rest and some bs with the chuckle patch switched to a longer board. I had brought a fish and a good ripper. Thinking now that my quad or even old school bonzer would have been the right board to have. A few head on proper mid lengths were having a good time. The ripper was to much. Just wasn't the right board and a I mis-timed the set. Just ended up floating with the rest of the flotsam and took a lame wave in. Rather then getting the frustration, I called it and chilled a bit before packing it up. My surf cup is full for now. This was a good run of swell.
Next time I'm packing that bonzer.

 

Just gotta say when the swell shows, and all yous surf and post, I read your stories and think about what kind of surf we would all have.

I'd share waves with all you dudes.