who here has been surfing this week?

I hit up North Washout both Friday evening and Saturday morning. It was stomach to chest hi friday, took 6'9 loehr. I'd drift south, so i popped out of the water 3x to get away from a surf family crowd. Some guys seemed to be getting the goods a lil more north of me, at least it seemed that way with several guys on it. I had a few nice ones, before the fin popped up on the 3rd runaround - was calling it anyways.
Next morning, took out the 7'2 WRV for the last of Fiona. Still not really semi-chop, but almost as the waves didn't really develop many peaks and lines so it was kinda of scramble, gamble. Still able to catch some waist hi's and get a good few in doing so.
I think Fiona brought a good shot of juice, feel like it was on me to not get the best of it on Thursday. Glad it hung around a good bit. Don't think this Ian will provide much windows of excitement, but the forecast does give it the impression that it's a slow burn - here's a foot of rain kinda thang

 

Last night we had a crazy front pass through around 5:00. I really thought I was going to see a tornado or water spout form. After the line of clouds passed over and a brief squall the wind went offshore and then back light onshore. Had a fun session from 6:00 until Dark-30 with my son at the end of our street.

 

You are the man man Curl, come up anytime. I'm still rocking the wetsuits you sent, I'll be in that 4/3 again soon. They are holding up good brother.

 

Didn't think Ian would have produced here. We got consistent rain and winds, nothing unruly but held it down for 12 hours. Tree feel on neighbor's house, but not loud enough for them to even hear. Ian brought the cold tho, def used neoprene. Was chest plus sets Saturday late morning at south washout. Paddled at north washout but it was too sideshore and bout waist hi, wasn't getting much on the shorty. Took a slightly bigger shorty, dealt with the crowd. But i had plenty of nice long rides after winds switched. Glad i made the decision to move, otherwise prolly wouldn't have tried for the following day.
Thought it'd be a longboard only leftovers, but took the 6'6 board and got some more before crowd squeezed me out of my position. Paddled further south and scored some more. Not crazy cane swell, but we came out of the good end of it all here in Charleston

 

Where's Antoine? Hope that dude made it through the hurricane ok.

 

My son surfed the same spot where these clips of Ben Gravy and Rob Kelly were shot on Monday and Tuesday. He buckled/broke both of his barrel boards. One I can fix and the other is broken in two and badly flexed and likely heading to the landfill.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjUC0iJDuz_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjRZlbjD0DI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

Yesterday the water temp took its first drop of fall. Suddenly I could feel every leak in my wetsuit and the warm water wax on my board was so slick that it made for a terrible session.

 

Gotta a good surprise this morning. It's been a while i've had one so def caught off guard. Semi chop, bit of an egg scramble out there but i'd see some chest hi waves that would run thru. Figured i'd suite up while i was there in the washout, been a min since i've been in the water. After battling thru the wash on the 6'3 alchemist, come to find out these were shoulder hi bombs. Counted 5 heads spread thru washout, very rare. Not sure what they were seeing on the cams, but clearly many of ppl were mistaken. Had bout ten rides to ride out the beers i had yesterday at buddy's grillout campfire. Last one was close to head hi, able to slide left and try for a bit of a cover up. Lil drift south, so made the walk back to the car and few more heads started showing up. I'm stoked. Board n suite in the car, hoping winds stay under 10mph. They're supposed to turn offshore tomorrow, but i can see that happening this evening.
Side note, carolina surf film fest this wknd (in my neighborhood). Might sell a board (Barrel) to Carolina Surf Brands i've never had hi stoke for but it was a cool hundo and in great condition. Not planning on putting a price tag over $200 for it. Think it'll get grabbed this wknd if so, then i can push myself to buy something new. Quiver could use a boost

 

Bummed at 7 , elated at 11 .

 

A couple friends of mine ventured up into that area for the Hurricane Fiona swell. I think it was a Friday. They said midday, AC was overhead macking, while at the same time OCNJ was like half the size and straight up weak. I believe it. On Delmarva, the same thing can happen, especially on NE swells for some reason. OCMD can be overhead while 15 miles north in Delaware, waist to chest.

 

Haven't posted in a while. OC, MD was fun this morning. My Delaware (traitor) buddies drove all the way up to Loch Arbor and said it was worth the 3 hour drive.

 

ahh my home Mitchel , mid day it was epic !

 

mid day looked like this pic Mitchell , same time last yr , had a solo session for 2 hrs prior to anyone paddling out yesterday .

 

I've been surfing more and shooting less. Yesterday fired all day. Surfed until I could no longer paddle then went home and rested for a while and then went back up late in the day with the camera. Was too exhausted to even edit the shots. This sequence is the only thing I've edited. Its just the first of a half a dozen sequences like this or better that I captured. Waves are still really good here this morning but I'm still feeling beat from yesterday. Once the caffeine and ibuprophen take effect I'll go grab a few.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CjtfpjKjwOr/

 

Friday got really good, I was beat from work and couldn't get myself to paddle out. Thankfully there were Saturday leftovers. I got some good ones but the standout wave was a late drop where i landed on top of our local shaper. The guy who shaped the board I was on. I felt like the biggest kook in the world. Thankfully he didn't send me out of the water, lol. Otherwise a long fun session, there was still size on set waves. My shoulders are aching. Thank god for Advil. And pot.