who here has been surfing this week?

Dudes I surfed all day Sat. Found a little pulse on Friday morning and took a dip with the LB to cool off. It was a glassy thigh high left that went on for a good distance. The swell was going to maintain the height for Sat but have a couple of more seconds in the interval. We got almost the whole neighborhood to go. Found it bumped up to a consistent waist high in the morning with a set of chest high waves coming in every 15 minutes or so once the tide started filling in. It stayed that way all day. The water was crystal clear and felt mid 70's. Long rides with some cover ups and a few drop knee turns here and there with just a few families to enjoy. My wife was out there. My kids were out there. Everyone got waves. The rides ended in a flooded tide pool that was 2 ft deep and stagnate in the morning and over my head deep in spots and fresh in the afternoon. That meant surfing on the outside and a total calm pool for the kids to splash around by the shore. Stayed until we were well done. Slurpees on the way home and a siesta. it was a high time.

 

Hey you guys surfing?
A sneaker of a swell rolled in. Figured there would be something with almost 5 @8 with an almost 2 @ 12 coming with it. Light winds gave it a funk. The incoming tide giving it a good push in the early am. Was expecting a good waist high. Found a solid chest with some bigger sets. Lot waves per set too. The fish felt good out there. Cut the chunk from it and raced around the sections. One great top turn in particular. Was real low and got high on the wave face. 180° pivot back into it and up down and around the foam. Right back in the pocket. Light crowd and warm water. Stopped making sections after a while and quit with my belly full of good ones to mind surf through the day.

 

That's what I'm talking about. wish i could of stayed. just heard it got better by me too.
Oh well. Going to take a look in the PM to see what's up.

 

Jail? You must be a really good.

That little bump continues. Waist high and super clean long walls. Long lulls between the good sets. Used the long board to get in early, drop in on an angle with the wave and go go go. It was easy surfing. Got a bunch of good set waves. Got some of those fast high up on the wall nose rides, a couple of good turns and found some cover too. Just a few heads in the water. It got a little funky and I used that to call it. My shoulders are sore.
Summertime.

 

Same here. Been fun summer surf for everyone any day. All day too. Water temps are high. when the tide switches, the water murks up and just feels sharky. When the hair on the back of the neck rises catch one in.

 

I've surfed a bit last couple of weeks. Seems there is good summer times waves almost everyday. Yesterday sunset session had some juice behind it too. Been into sleeping in and waiting for the evening to get some beach time. Just feeling that different vibe of washing the day off with a surf.

 

I calling it. 23 foot for the finals

 

Nice run huh.

I put the fishing gear away and just surfed a bunch. Rode a bunch of boards too. My regular spot loved the period of this one. The moon tides and not always the best winds for here didn't really add too much funk and kept it interesting.

For this run I put away my fish and surfed performance short boards. I didn't put the high performance in there for a reason. One is a 6' squash tail thruster and one is an inch bigger, kinda 80's single wing rounded pin I've always rode as a quad. I took out high performance because they are what some would say bro dims not pro dims. But hey I'm pushing 50. I should have some perks and an extra inch of width and some thickness is all I'm asking.

I struggled some. Not paddling out or around or even catching waves. It was the surfing that was hard. Using LB's and less performance surfboards make it easy off the drop and gives me a second to get my feet right. The boards ride well without much input. Not these. Had to get into getting up and pumping right away. I liked the challenge and got some good ones.

One day I was traveling for work and caught it at my old stomping grounds. Just bought that rounded pin. I rip that place up. It's like old muscle memory. The body knew what to do when.
The last day I rode another shorty. 5' 10" rounded tail quad that is almost 3" thick in the middle and still feels 3" at the rail.
Had it shaped almost 15 years ago. Wasn't my favorite and shelved it. I understand that chest high and high tide anything with this much volume would go but I did good surfing on it.

It was a nice run for sure. The flatness and heat wave will give my shoulders a rest until the next one.

Can they postpone a contest till next weekend?

 

U16 and U18? @CJsurf, isn't that how we buy shrimp?