who here has been surfing this week?

I had a killer surf this morning. Chest high and peeling forever with just a handful of heads. And good heads they be. The tropics brought some sargassum with it. That stuff stinks! Got a few 1st off on the fat quad I spoke of last post. Had couple of a OK ones but the lightning started to strike and as we waited out the storm the tide improved and the wind went a few degrees right and lightened up.

It went all time for here shape wise. Solid chest high sets and they were spaced out. Light crowd meant good waves for everyone. Switched up to the squash tail thruster and it all clicked dudes. Drops were good. Back foot went somewhere on the tail pad each drop. After the drop was a few pumps for speed, maybe some foam to climb around and then it was surf trip good for a hundred yards. I had to go or I would of wrecked my shoulders for the rest of the show. I'm already 2 Aleve's in and covered in Aspercrème and Aloe. As I was leaving the world was starting to show up. The evening show should be bonkers.

Hope it comes your way too dudes! This is go time for us east coasters.

 

Dudes,
Sure hope you're surfing. We got on shores here today so I'm resting up. Yesterday morning was a repeat of the day before. It just had less juice and rip and 5 times the surfers. Was no big deal to me cause I was still in the groove from the day before. Took the squash tail again and found myself sitting wide just waiting around for one to come to me then after that sitting inside and catching a few smaller nugs. I just surfed casual. Picked my waves here and there. Bagged a sweet one with a long tube and exit. Most others clamped on me. Went in for some coffee and watched as the crew grew and the waves shrunk and got sparse. Left it to them and went to work in a good state of mind.

Off day today but I'll be stepping up tomorrow. Been a while.

 

Barrel City. All I can say right now

 

Yeah I quoted myself.
I really worked the corners of this swell and it worked for me. After the off day the wind turn off shore, the swell grew a bit, and a sweep developed. Headed west to an area that would have plenty of peaks to sweep across. Found it just a touch smaller and the sweep not strong at all. What a day! Nothing but late drop pits and plenty of them. It was just overhead at the biggest. Rode an 80's inspired single wing rounded pin as a quad and maybe, just maybe, it is a tad small for me. I might have missed a wave or two because by the time I paddled there didn't have it to paddle into it. But maybe it's just right because I caught more than missed. Once up I felt good about the surfing I was doing.

As the tide dropped I got a couple behind the jetties. There wasn't any real danger but it sure feels like it when you zip by one. Last one I got was right after realizing I'd drifted into the pro-zone. Spot has a few legit dudes and a lot of wet spectators. Usually I just sweep through but A Bomb came right at me and I went for it. Felt below sea level with the wall of the pit on one side and a rock wall on the other. Little bit of a roof top too. In my mind I could hear the cameras clicking from the jetty. They probably were. Just aimed at someone else.

Woke up on the big day and the wind was the right direction but pretty strong. The waves were big. I did not go. I had my fill I guess.

 

Good pics of good surfers on good waves.

Triple good