I do know that spot. I know it was a weekday... could have been a Wednesday or Thursday??? I remember shooting down to the beach on my lunch break to check it, and it was monsterous compared to most good days here. After work I went straight out and there were about a dozen guys in the water, tops. Everybody had their big wave boards. If you read my daily surf reports on Dukestorm.com, you know my reports are conservative. So... no exaggeration, this day was truely what I call "epic."
hmmm not sure how big these 2 are really is but it's hurricane bill. And the other is from some swell in april of last year.
There have been a number of days that have been solid doh and clean over the last 15 years. It's not such an outlandish claim. And there have been PLENTY of guys in the water. I love to hear the stories of epic swells of the past... knowing there are plenty of epic swells to come. Waves were her before us, and they'll be here long after we're gone. Some will have their own signature perfection, where all the elements, by luck, circumstance, or God' good graces, will come together, and even the nay sayers will have their shot. If you're serious about surfing, it's what you live for - a perfect, epic day at your local.
THANK YOU!!! finally someone with similar wave height guess! There is no way that thing is any bigger than head high at best. i say chest-head and you say shoulder so hey, we're pretty close eh?
Big Waves? Watch em today at the Mavericks Contest Mavericks Big Wave Paddle-In Contest The high tide surge is wrecking the contest site, someone had their leg broke when a section of scaffolding fell on them, spectators are forced onto the bluffs.
my biggest wave happened when i was 13 years old in the hurricane of '86. i was in bethany beach & it literally took about 45 minutes to paddle outside.after i got out,the lifeguards called everyone in to close the beach & as i started to turn to paddle in,a HUGE wave came & in a split second,i decided to go for it.when i started to drop in,i looked down & it was about 15 feet straight down.i was already commited & couldn't pull out.i raced straight down faster than i have ever gone.scared the crap out of my skinny 13 year old ass,but i made the section & finished the ride.when i hit the beach,everybody was like "dude,that was a freakin awsome ride!!" all i could think was how scary it was & how much i wasn't in control of it.crazy,i'll never forget that ride
