Right now in the Northeast is cold, snowing, and f*^&*^g flat. Other than traveling, reading a good surf book keeps me stoked. I recomend "All for a few perfect waves." and "In search of Captan Zero" all recomendations are apreciated.
Caught Inside is a good book I read it a couple of times. Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintence is a good read too
have to give a second thumbs up to caught inside... have read it a few times over as well. great book.
Reaaaaaaally enjoyed In Search of Captain Zero, and Caught Inside. Would also recommend West of Jesus (dont be deterred by the name), it's a good read. -http://www.amazon.com/West-Jesus-Surfing-Science-Origins/dp/1596910518 Currently working on the Dora book, All for a Few Perfect Waves. Haven't gotten all too into it yet.
Captain Zero and Caught Inside are good. One of my favorite's is Eddie Would Go, a biography of Eddie Aikau but also talks Hawaii's surfing history, really well written. Pipe Dreams, the book by Slater, is also pretty good. Interesting to get inside his head a little see how he grew up and the beginnings to his surfing.
I just finished the Dora book. Good read, but might have been better if he would of told the story. Either way fascinating character, they should make a movie. I'm sure he would hate that!!!! Just got "Caught inside" looks interesting and I'm about to order the Eddie book. I read the Slater book and it was nice to get a glipse into the mindset of such an acomplished person. He talks about charging big waves and how he overcame the fear of certain dangerous spots. Good read, check it out.
I know this is irrelevant but the book "Suffer in Silence" is a good book about Navy SEALs going through training in Cali. Its pretty intense. They state the true **** that happens at BUDS and isnt shown on television
just picked up "waves and beaches". i heard it was great. i'll let you guys know, gonna start it tonight.
i never read until lately over the snow storm i was boered of COD...Pipe Dreams by kelly slater was pretty good and Big Sur by Jack Kerouac is also a good book along with Scar Tissue. Only one is a surf book.