crazyest places u surfed

Never surfed anywhere too crazy but most unique spots for me are

China walls- Southeast Oahu

And this spot on the tip of the North Shore past backyards, on low tide it was only a couple feet deep and the reef was pretty intense, just getting into water deep enough to paddle required us to walk across a sea urchin infested reef for several yards. Once we got out there we were greeted by several massive sea turtles. Surf was around 6-8 feet but got really sketchy once the sun set.

 

In no particular order

1) Inches, SE Puerto Rico - shallow reef left w/urchins ain't whats crazy about it - the fire coral is nasty and a few of the guys out that day were really torn up by it, err, on flames.

2) Hermosa, Costa Rica in Oct 1988 - the 100 yr rain had all the streams turning into rivers and rivers into avalaches of water - the line-up was full of the usual tree parts plus refrigerator doors, tires, animal parts, etc. It was really gross when you drifted north towards the river mouth.

3) SW France, Summertime - only time a pair of sunglasses would have kept me from looking like the super perv - the women were beautiful.

 

1.Salsa brava (the pic)
2.Puerto escondido (all the photos are from a disposable)
short list, but those are probly the 2 best breaks
wait nevermind, cant get the salsa pic on

 

Get the Salsa pic!!! I've seen that thing heaving and it was scary...

 

I surfed the bull shark infested waters of mar del plata argentina, the break called "the rock" which is a right point break that breaks about 10 yrds infront of a massive horizontal jetty that had all these barnacals and **** in it.

 

Salsa is sick and I have caught it huge, wave in Chile makes it look like child's play. Salsa got scarier after the earthquake back in the 90's.

 

when i was there, there wasnt huge epic salsa brava, and i would of loved to see it break big and clean, but when i was there it broke a couple days, one really nice, clear blue water, and a nice size.. but the rest of the time was smaller, so it didnt break until the day i left, but ill try to get some pics.

 

heres 5 pics of salsa, there not the epic salsa, but that blue day was weird looking down on take off, and seeing dead sharp reef, and then a heavy lip coming over... wish there were more salsa pics

 

Calafia. 2005, DOH+ south swell in October. I have surfed beigger waves and all that, but this particular spot breaks off an under water reef rock jetty and hollows out into jagged reef. And its a right point, and im goofy. So I spent a whole day of pulling into freight trains and was surprised I made it out alive that day. I was with some cool locals that helped me out, but me and my friend both agree that was the gnarliest session ive ever had. Made it out of a couple barrels out of pure survival instinct, thinking if i didnt make it, I was a goner in 2 feet of water and reef as far as the eye can see.

I know some guys on here have been there before, I have talked to them about it, but if you have been there, you know how heavy that spot gets even if its not that big. This sh** was macking and I went down there with this crazy as$ navy seal big wave charger. Every time I get a phone call from him i get nervous, like ohh god, it must be big out.

 

You guys HAVE to read this. This guy wrote a few paragraphs about the surf spot that I am speaking of. His words are 100% what I have always told people about this place. Just read this article, and it indicates how severe things get there.

http://www.subculturalicons.com/Photo Files/Calafia.html

 

Sandra's tequila in Rosarita is very good

 

wake waves from a boat on the chesapeake

 

Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. Beautiful black sand beach. Clean water range 3ft to 12 ft. plus. Barrels. broken boards. When it got too big we went to Boca Baranca a 1/4 mile left point break. Very cool place. When you finish a ride you cant even see where you took off. Caymen sitting in the river mouth. Banditos eyeballing our car but we had a guy with a 2 ft machetti guarding it. Everyone is beautiful down there.
Northern Red Triangle. Salmon Creek, Bodega Bay, Goat Rock. Sonoma County, Cali. Big, cold water, no easy paddle, dangerous because of the great whites and underwater earthquakes creating sneaker waves. Dense fog, major rips. But when its clean ...Wow! I had a sea lion bark at me once in the lineup at Bodega and I figured hes telling me its time to get out because its dinner time for the sharks. someone got nibbled on the very next day. This region changed the way I look at surfing and made everyplace else alot easier.

 

Aguadillia

Bridges, PR where the waves break right in front of rip rap all along the shore and the local meat packing plant was dumping cattle parts in the water attracting the men in gray suits. . . but that was in 1968.

 

1. playa hermosa, costa rica. this was my first experience w/ a beach break outside of the us east coast. haven't been back to this part of costa since this trip in 2002, but it was very eye opening...took off on a low tide, head high dredger & thought i was going to die! as i hit the bottom & made my turn, the wave sucked out below sea level & the thing turned black as it sucked sand off the bottom. pulled into the barrel & got a great ride, but it hurt so bad when it clam shelled on me!

2. p-land, morro negrito, panama. outer island slabbing reef break. some well-traveled folks have compared it to teahupoo in the way it breaks. to date, this is the only place i have ever broken a board. it only works on a lower tide, & you have to take off more or less directly over the boil (aka: dry reef at dead low) to get into the wave on time. you also want to get WAY out of the wave when it's time. if not, the following may happen: i got into the wave ok, made my bottom turn & set up for what i THOUGHT was going to be a nice barrel. got myself slotted in & noticed that the lip waaayyy out ahead of my was starting to feather. i tried to punch thru the back of the wave, but it was too thick. i got sucked back over the falls & rolled thru the bone yard on the inside & almost washed against the cliff (yea, didn't mention that, did i? this whole set up is in front of a cliff. the "p" in p-land, i later found out, stands for "peligroso" which is spanish for dangerous). came up to find only the back part of my board still attached to me. that was a fun paddle back to the boat...bleeding from the head, back, legs, etc...dodging rocks & set waves on what had suddenly become a cooler lid. no back up pintail on that trip meant i was restricted to the more user-friendly spots for the rest for the trip.

 

i surfed the bay near inlet during bill

 

I'm not too experienced of a world traveler... only "crazy" spot to me was Steamer Lane where you gotta jump off the cliff to get in the water. To be honest, I was FUccKING nervous as hell.

 

los caracas -outside caracas ,venezuela. real fun rock bottom right point off the jetty with crystal clear shoulder high sets peeling in....all you could see down the line were rocks..

...cant forget endless drews left with that weird groin that sucks water in,and the night seshs at ceasers pier

 

Costa Rican river mouths are known for crocks and sharks especially remote areas. I surfed Playa Langosta river mouth and sighted several sharks within arms reach of me. I'll hand it you guys... you have balls surfing there...