when I was 11-17 I BB'd because I couldn't afford a surfboard - and very much unlike nowadays - if kids wanted something like that they typically had to earn $$ and buy it themselves. Once I started owning boards and driving and whatnot I never BB'd again. Then I suffered a serious groin injury couple of years ago and had to BB if I wanted water time. I loved it, the wave near my house (Little Monmouth) is a good BB wave. I figured I'd get back into it, but the thing is, as soon as I healed up, I just stopped. Its kind of fun but not anything close to surfing.
I rode from 17th to 4th st today all alone, then I guess someone from Malibu's saw me catch a set wave around 8th and decided to come on out too. Seen him before cause I recognized his board, he came out, rode about 5 waves in 15 minutes, then went in. (Although he pulled into a nice quickie barrel) Actually I think he walked back up the beach to the next groin and went back out, but come on! I walked all the way up to 17th and rode back down, THEN got out for the day. That's because I knew what the current and conditions were like for today. I guess it's easier for waffles to take the whitewash back in and walk back up, rather than negotiate the inside paddle-back out after finishing a wave. Maybe he was young I dunno, but that's not the first time I've seen that.
during hurricane bill i ate it a few times on some 3ft overhead waves. it's freaky cause your pretty much going face-first,but on the other hand,it isn't that bad cause once your death-roll is over,you have fins on to get to the surface faster. i love bodyboarding,been at it for a few decades now.awsome fun even when you get older.
Yeah, feels good to be THAT surfer huh. The surfing industry with all the money & backing & still have to let the bodyboarders ride it 1st & surfer's claim it as though they discovered the break. What is the excuse as to why the surfer's didn't test it out for themselves 1st. You have the boats, helicopters, surf forecaster's, etc all set up & still wait for someone else to do it 1st. Then have all the surf mags, sponsors make up a headline as a undiscovered slab surfed for 1st time with 1st ever pics. Take it to the National Enquirer & sell the BS to the ones that NEED to beleive it.
Most of the spots you are talking about are ridden primarily by BBers for a reason. They are heavy slaps that get inverted faces.... Something that is almost impossible to do on a stand up board, and the wipe outs are much easier to avoid while laying down. Thats a fact... I surf some shallow reef spots, but we have to wait until the tide is right and there aren't boils everywhere on the face.... The BBers can make insane drops underneath heaving sections that stand up guys really cant make.... Not to say that they usually make it out, but they will get deep and pitted.... There are tons of awesome BB spots worldwide that some standup guys surf, but they just shoulnt... IE: THe wedge.... A man mad disaster for a stand up surfer, when BBers can get into 20 foot pits and come out fine... Its gnarly, but its just easier to BB... Most good BBers are stand up guys too that just want heavy waves, that are sometimes only accessible by BBs. In my opinion. I give a lot of laydown guys credit. Its not my cup of tea, but I see guys having a blast out there on the bodyboards.
I love reading these responses pure comedy 90% of the stand up comunity and 95% of the boogie comunity are ****ing donkeys