How bodyboarders have influenced surfing - ESPN

Sponge Heads

They're just a hassle

 

Yeah, the riding waves part is true.

 

worthy discussion

Lots of great bodyboarders out there: Mike Stewart, Kainoa Mcgee, etc. Guys like that take it to another level. Lots of heavy spots were first surfed by bodyboarders (Teahuppo, i think...could be wrong).

The guys who give it a bad name are the kooks who just take up waves in a crowded lineup...no different than guys who can't surf. It's just easier to poke fun because on a bodyboard, it looks like they're not even trying.

I'll surf 90% of the time, but at the beginning or end of an east coast swell when the waves are junky or closing out, it's a lot of fun to go bodysurf (or bodyboard too, I guess, I haven't done it much). It's all about fun in the water. It seems that most of the guys who give bodyboarders a hassle are those who are frustrated because they don't surf well anyway. That being said, I've dropped in on many a speed bump lol.

 

yeah

I have surfed on the east coast for quite a few years now and i just got home from iraq on halloween. I messed my ankle up pretty badly to the point that i cant standup on my board any more from a injury related to my deployment, so i, in turn sponge now. Some people have reasons why they bodyboard. Riding waves isn't about what you ride on its about the wave and the mindset that it gives. Its about the experience of the power of the ocean at your feet (or in my case, my stomach or knee.)

Have fun out there guys, thats all it is.

 

well said brother....
and much thanks and appreciation for your service to our country.

 

Respect

Well said, and thanks for your service brah. Just because we're a bunch of govt-hating hippies doesn't mean we don't appreciate our amazing military. wish you the best in your healing and bodyboarding. definitely give bodysurfing a shot too if you get the chance. so much fun, especially if it's chest-head and closing out. just search under 'sandy's beach bodysurf' if you need the proof haha. take care.

aloha,
matt

 

I have surfed on the east coast for quite a few years now and i just got home from iraq on halloween. I messed my ankle up pretty badly to the point that i cant standup on my board any more from a injury related to my deployment, so i, in turn sponge now. Some people have reasons why they bodyboard.

 

First off let me say hi.... This is my first time posting on swell info. I grew up surfing on the central coast of CA. I went from a bodyboarding and soon switched to surfing. I remember in my teens and twenties looking down my nose at bodyboarders thinking they didn't have what it took to take it to the next level, which back then I thought was surfing... I was pretty arrogant and ignorant back then... I'm 38 now and after breaking my neck which resulted in a spinal cord injury I no longer had the ability to surf. Paddling w/ a paralyzed left hand and upper body weakness also from spotty paralysis, I wasn't sure how or if I would ever get back out in the surf. Fortunately I can kick which gives me the ability to bodyboard. Without bodyboarding I would be sitting on the sidelines, missing that rush and peace only the feeling of riding a wave can bring you.
It can be discouraging when a bodyboarder doesn't understand the "rules" of wave riding. Or the one's who do and are just down right disrespectful... I get the "stink eye" just carrying my bodyboard by other surfers. That being said there are plenty of surfers out there that after talking to me give me big props for overcoming my disabilities and being out in the water. You know I've even been given a wave or two when I wasn't on the inside from surfers that know about me. Really it boils down to respect and kindness... No matter what you ride, were all out for the same reason.

 

amazing!

Thanks for sharing your story. I really admire that spirit of just going after your passion. The most inspirational people to be around are those who overcome the obstacles to do what they love, especially in surfing since all the elements seem to work against us. It's cool to watch the WCT'ers, but my real favorites like Bethany Hamilton and Timmy Turner who take what life has thrown at them and overcome, smiling along the way. Anyhow, don't wanna get too wishy washy, but I just wanted to share my admiration of your passion for the waves.
Aloha,
Matt