meh doesnt look too bad aside from the chop. fine if you're riding a shortboard, so I'm pretty pumped. As long as it's big i dont really care
Yea... this is one of those "local knowledge" situations. I think you're right, except if you've been keeping an eye on the sandbars and know what particular jetty, pipe, beachie... has some potential for a tide or two. But for the most part, you want the swell to hit the beach at an angle for the best form, and head on for the best size.
when its choppy its just annoying and frustrating. u get out of the water feeling like u suck... not fun
all these swell/wave height/buoy things look pretty big in comparison to colin,but it's only calling waist to chest.can you please explain why it's not forecast bigger with 6ft.buoy/wave height?
I pray for swell to only come during the week and not the weekends. All the bennie kooks, seasonals and weekend warriors kill it.
Because it's a short period wind swell; @ 6 seconds... Colin was a medium period groundswell at around 10-11 seconds
Thank you!!! Someone understands what I'm talking about... Seriously though... If u don't get this concept, then your just silly... East swell are always notorious for being walled up close outs, and it because the swell is basically hitting the beach dead on... So if you have the option, find somewhere that the swell is hitting the beach at an angle, the waves will be shaped much better...
right board Not much you can do about the winds, but you can ride walled up stuff if you have the right board. Too many guys try to fight these swells with potato chips that generate no speed. Get the right tool for the job and youll enjoy these E swell sessions. Or get your passport out and take a trip. Its summer take what you can get and smile.
A lot of paddling and a handful of big drops amidst bouncing around and tons of whitewater right through the high tide here,but you could find a rideable face if you do the work,this place has more size in this junk than most places,but a worse paddle,too,it's very windy all day and still so far today
well to get back on topic... I just spent the morning checking the surf/surf reports and it does seem extremely choppy, but rideable. I think im going to head out at around 2 and try to get some waves before it dies down. tomorrow should be better, with less wind
Florida looks like it will have fun NE groundswell. Any chance WB/CB gets some more of this E windswell than indicated now?
Big and mean this morning by me. 6ft-ish... This evening it was about 3-5 feet, very choppy, not so mean. But basically Victory At Sea conditions. Shoulders were falling out from under you left and right. Very short period. But still fun. VERY STRONG winds all day long.
Haha you guys have no sense of sarcasum. If you can find me a west facing beach on the east coast let me know. But if you did i bet it would not be vic at sea here in nj right now.
Suggestion to all... I would sit this one out... Too windy I think its going to be too windy and choppy... I would suggest everyone to sit this one out... then the line up can be free for once. I am stoked for the big choppy surf. Maybe the line up won't be so crowded. As for finding a good break on an eastern swell, good luck, eastern swell direction is bad for all. Put it this way, there will be waves all weekend and I will ride them. I hope to see only a few in the water. Peace out... I need my beatuty sleep for tomorrows dawn patrol.
