Groundswell, Closeouts and Sandbars....

with a real long period there is usually plenty of time between the sets to get out if you time it right. plus the rips are a big help in getting out since all that water has to get back out somehow.

 

I see. Yeah that makes sense. Long period is key. Got to be nerve wrecking though if you time it wrong. lol

 

You time it wrong and your done for.

 

During hurricane bill. I went to a spot that never normally breaks. Awesome, awesome session. 6 foot peelers that were refracting into this protected area and just went on forever. Very memorable. Could barely walk the next day from all the kicking. Legs cramping up finally ended my session. I was out there forever. I couldn't leave. Too much fun

 

Very encouraging. Makes me want to get out there lol
It is true though.

 

theres a Spot around the cape thats like that Time it wrong and it lights out

 

I timed it wrong three times during Bill 45 minutes later I eventually got out. Didn't even feel like taking waves after that pounding.

 

we have some decent sized waves now, so at least its not gonna be going from 1ft@4seconds to 4.5@13seconds. so the sand bars wouldnt be too bad. but then again i dont know too much about this stuff, im just assuming

 

Do you guys ride a bigger board in 1-3 foot overhead stuff?

 

Uhhh yeah. I think this swell is going to be bigger than that though. I think it's been underforecast. There's three storms coming through and I think we will have waves through Labor Day.

Click Here:

http://www.swellinfo.com/tropical/index.html?file=hurricane-wave-model

Click the magnifying glass and zoom out then hit play...

 

Depends on the wave shape...But, generally for me no. My step up is only a 6'2 and I am 6'. I like small boards.

 

just come to monmouth county if you're afraid. it's always f**king smaller here.

 

Yea but usually holds up better than southern NJ. Most of the breaks south of pt pleasant are wide open so I would rather it be a bit smaller than close out death walls.

 

i'm going to rockaway on sun. f****cckkkkkk dealing w/ monmouth county and the small crap.

jetty, swells like this(if it actually pans out) make you better. suck it up

 

Fisherman's Island....anyone....anyone?

 

I stood on the beach at S-Turns that day and watched guys getting barreled out of their minds, but mostly saw dudes get's drilled. There were some of the most insane wipe-outs I have ever seen in person that day. It was solid DOH on sets and super hollow freight trains. There weren't many guys that could handle it that day.

The day before was totally out of control, but I did see two tow teams about a mile out. I saw one guy catch a wave and it was just insane watching this little speck carving all over a 20' plus face. No idea who it was, but he had to have a sack the size of a camel's.

 

What about Frisco

What about Frisco? could be cleaner with forcasted wind direction

 

I thought I remember people posting that it was Kelly Slater and some friends towing in that day? I could be mistaken in my recollection or those people could have been wrong. Just throwing it out there though.

 

Carson - I was there too. S-Turns - crazy amount of photographers. I went down to the lighthouse and caught some of the best surf I've had in years. Big and peeling off the main jetty. I was on the next peak down the beach. SOOO much fun. The day before was definately way out of control. Those way outside sandbars breaking top to bottom barrels. I was hoping too see some tow-ins that day but didn't. I'll post a pic or two of that day when I get home.