i drink 6 whole eggs, beat on a speed bag, and stare at myself in the mirror for the last minutes of my favorite Survivor song.
Hahahahahah!!! I paddle out with a cigarette hanging out of my mouth, and hope I can pull in and come out still tokin' on my first wave. Well... if I smoked that's what I'd do... I really don't have a routine, unless you can count fumbling into my wetsuit shaking with excitement, then tripping over my leash at least 3 or 4 times running down the beach a routine.
No routine...Just Hustle...rush around...anxiety builds. Can't get wet quick enough. Pre - Surf is such an anxious endeavor!! With conditions changing on a dime around here...i just try to move as quickly as possible in everything i do that lead up to surfing including, loading car, driving home from work, putting on wet suit, running to water's edge, etc!
my usual routine goes like this. check surf, load up, grab a sun drop and food, get to beach check different spots, paddle out once i decide were to surf at and shrd the waves till i cant move.
wake up before dark, put clothes on, eat banana, drive to beach. literally no steps in between, unless there is no coffee in the house.
I just pick a board based on the forecast, walk down to the beach, even if its the wrong board or if somewhere else might be better, if there is a decent wave, I just run out. I dont stretch. I dont do Yoga before hand. I dont even drink enough water. I take one sip of water, then paddle out completely dehydrated. I never eat before I surf, because I have a fast metabolism and if I eat, that means I will have to sh** while im surfing, and that is a waste of time.... So, in my day, the surf comes first. When i get out of the water, I worry about replenishing my hydration, eating food etc.... I have surfing ADHD... The second I see a wave, I just take off. Which is why I cant even hang out at the beach with my wife. I cant teach anyone else to surf. Cause the second I see a wave, im like a scavenger and I take off. Can't wait... No time for apples, bananas, a pre stretch and some meditation. My meditation is riding the waves, so the quicker I get down to busines, the quicker everythig else doesnt matter.
Wake up , Check the Cam & forcast. Eat something Load up the Rover with board, Suits , Wax , and some foood and water DRIVE check a few spots once I pick a spot I strech , Watch how it breaking for a bit suit up and have at it
Wake up, put clothes on, eat banana, get there, dont feel like driving to check anywhere else except where i always go. My stretch is running towards the water.
Get up in the dark and check the buoy/wind reports...then I usually wolf down a banana or two and plow through half a pot of coffee on my way down. Check a spot or two and get my butt out there asap before anyone else so I can have it all to myself.
i ceremonially check the waves at five minute intervals, running up and down the street to the beach in my wetsuit. when i feel that the waves are sufficient, i go home and swallow a frozen bunker whole. I then punch my board until it dings, and drag it by the leash up to the beach
alarm goes off 5 am call my ride throw sweat pants and sweat shirt on drive to spots check them all once maybe twice surf eat, then sleep
Set 6 alarms, all in 5 min intervals. When i finally get up i put on any clothes near me and get into my car and drive like one second down to the beach. When i decide to go out i run to my car and drive home and get pumped. throw on the wetsuit listen to 1 song, throw my board into my car and rush to the beach while blastling terrible music on the radio. No time to eat or drink, i just got out
wake up get dressed w/o waking up family feed cats, let dog out check cams, buoys, NWS Marine report online while waiting for gut to "wake up" spend some quality time on the bowl let dog back in select board or boards wax up pack dip (copenhagen) hit the head again (if needed) drive past spot I never surf at but like to check check my usual 3-4 spots balance kooked up crowds/wave quality/ # of friends already at each spot - and make choice surf
