since turkey day (aka "national gluttony day") is coming up soon, i thought something like this would be appropriate. not to mention the need to offset some of the negativity going on around here lately.... i'm thankful for... my family my friends growing up w/in walking distance of the beach the fact that my dad is a surfer/waterman & introduced me to that lifestyle early on my students...every single one of them, even the ones that make me want to drink a bottle of whiskey! being physically able to surf having a dry wetsuit to put on for a 2nd session in cold weather the surfer's journal...it's nice to have a surf publication around that caters to those w/ a reading level above grade 4 & an attention span longer than 2 seconds my parrot, phoenix having the ability & option to travel frequently having a part-time job that's actually fun to go to & more like play time than work.
I was thinking about makeing a post like this today while out in CM I am thankful for Family & Friends Good paying job Roof over my head Surfing & my quiver Long Noserides and Gliding And the abiltity learn from life and not let little things get to me
i would like to give thanks to a local in monmouth county who helped saved me from drowning today. My leash snapped, had to swim into shore, i was surfing infront of rocks so when i tried to swim in the current was pulling me into the rocks. The man saw i was having difficulty swimming so he jumped in and helped me ashore. Then my board was being thrown into the rocks, so i went to climb over the jetty to get my board while i was watching it getting smashed into the the rocks. The man helped me get my board, and save my life. Thank you deal local.
beer and hookers and also... family and friends being able to travel and surf with so many good people music the beautiful natural world good health art
my family as they have to be able to handle all of my crazy stuff. surfing as it always calms me down. snowboarding as theres just nothing like when its flat being able to hit the mountains. and good friends as thers nothing like having awesome friends to always be there for you. and music as it always gets me in the mood for the right thing and get my mind set straight for a test or surf or mountains.
Family, friends, decent health, condoms, cluck u chicken, cali rolls from Tomatoes, Alana Blanchard, under forcasted waves, pay day, johnny walker, happy hour's
