Next time you think it's 8-10ft...

why? Then we would be loosers too!

 

2 words: INFERIORITY COMPLEX

 

..just remember that it never gets that big around here, what we think of as doh and up is actually 4-6, you measure by looking back at the wave as you are up on your board on the wave

 

thats also cus collin is one of the best surfers around here, and isnt always bodyboarding, he def. surfs more than he boogies

 

why is it boogie boards drop knee every wave, why not just stand up on a surfboard . its like i want to stand up but i cant so im going to drop knee and pretend

 

hawains measure by looking at the back of the wave, everyone else measures it by the wave face.

and it gets big here, you probably just don't paddle out

 

While I do "try" and use the machismo hawaiian method of measuring waves, that is a VERY dangerous method. I think it is very outdated and is only used by angry HI locals.

Points being: Measuring wave faces is much more accurate... I also dont really like the "Chest High" "Waist High" (sorry swellinfo =P) measurements...

Both of these methods leave too much interpretation... one guys waist to chest is one thing, one guys is another, not to mention the fact that once you his HH+ and OH+ it goes right into "a few feet over head" then into DOH... That is about a 6-7 ft difference that people are generalizing....

Not to mention when Hawaiians say its "5-6 feet", that means that there is a fluxuation of wave face size from 10 - 14 feet or so. And anyone who has surfed big waves knows that there is a HUGE difference in 10ft and 14ft.. So much so that completely different boards need to be used....

So, i think the HI technique is outdated and lame... I also think that waist, chest etc just makes people feel comfortable...

I feel that the only accurate readings are the ones in wave face size... I.E. the surfline method...

I mean, if surfline says its 4-6 feet with occasional 7ft, I can still technically surf my beach break, on a larger shortboard.... But once you get to be about 5-7 with occasional 8ft sets, then that extra foot will literally close out my beach break... Every foot counts...

My favorite reef works off difraction, and it really only holds solid 8 ft sets, with occasional 10ft if its clean... Anything bigger, I will have to move about 1/2 mile south to the wide open deep water reefs....

And when you just say its in between DOH and TOH, you are talkin anywhere between 10-20 ft faces... that is a HUGE window to work with..

So, I salute surfline's way just because it keeps us all honest. 12ft is 12ft. I know EXACTLY what they mean by that...

And when surfline says there are occasional 15-18ft sets, I know its time for the mini gun etc...

Every foot counts... And to go from chest, to head, to OH to DOH is WAAAAAYYY inaccurate... Maybe not for the midatlantic, cause there arent too many crazy differences is overall swell size...

But point being, I think in 2010, internationall, meters or feet need to be used. We can all break down the math on EXACTLY what that means...

I mean, the back of the wave is 4ft, and the face is 10ft? You know how many people will show up with the wrong equipment at the wrong place...

Wave size in FEET is the way to go... Everything is not accurate enough for me...

changing any swell's wave face size by 2-3 feet is a COMPLETE game changer. Different spots, different equipment...

I hate when some a-hole says its OH and I get there and its 10ft... That is WAAAAAYYYY overhead, not just OH+...

all that sketchy terminology leaves a grey area.... Im all about good old america wave face measurements.

 

dude stop writing books

 

I was in HNL awhile back. January '09. Surfing Diamond Head & south shore spots. I'm not good enough to tackle the huge north shore stuff.

All of a sudden, word hit quickly: swell hitting Pipe. We jumped in the ride & got up there.

The north shore surf shops had their chalkboards scrawled with '15-25 plus'.......hundreds of people are on the beach. Big-time photogs with huge lenses & video freaks with all the expensive gear. The poseur surfer wannabes. The chicas parading up & down: ripped, toned & tanned in dental floss & showing the DNA that daddy gave 'em. It's a show...

We parked our butts on the sand in front of one of the houses that are located right there on the prime-time beach facing Pipe. Turned out we were perched directly in front of the Volcom House.

Many of the pro surfers who weren't in the water that day & their homeboyz & various hangers-on were perched on the upper deck of the Volcom House, cracking many beers, toastin' doobs & actively watching their mates try to make that monster wave.

Three things stand out in my memory of that day:
1. That wave is massive & jacked-up spooky & anyone who goes out there has serious cojones: that includes the boogie-boarders (of which I am not) but those fellas had some of the best tricks of the day on that wave. And, some of the worst wipeouts.
2. The running commentary from the boys at the Volcom House, fueled by weed & suds, was absolutely priceless as they ranked on & ripped on bu primarily rooted for their friends in the ocean.
3. I could have stayed there for days. One of Nature's spectacles that you truly have to see to believe.

For the record: I surf. I've never done the boogie board thing or the SUP thing.

Conclusion:
Seems to me like beefing another guy about his choice of ride is petty bullcrap.
As in: Get a life.
As in: Who the frig are you to judge anyone.
As in: Stow your negative energy up your boyfriend's arse.

One man's opinion.

 

I think I type faster than I think, so that whole rants spit out of my keyboard in 2 minutes. Sometimes when I see how long it is, im like man, I would have stopped reading my own sh** after like 2 sentences... HA! Point taken!@

 

i have just been on the east coast of aussie for the past 4 months, minus 2 months being back. 1) they measure they waves in FEET (go figure) and 2) when its 4-5ft out at the local exposed beach break, its what we see at the pinnacle of our mediocre noreasters and hurricanes

 

na man, its okay