two years in a row it was good here, and two years in a row it was totally flat for two and a half weeks prior to
make that 4 years in a row (technically 5 different days). yeah i'm 'that guy' who keeps track. 1-19-2007 was almost the same as today. that was the first day i ever went out in 'bigger surf'. today was sick though.
must've been a lot better earlier in the day b/c when i paddled out after school it certainly wasn't barreling. it was, however, a solid waist-chest & super, super fun! i'm in no way complaining. i'm just skeptical of the claims of shackage. if you got it, great. after it being flat for so long, being sick all weekend, & only surfing once in the last 2 months, i was thrilled to get what i did! i actually need to get my act together & write up a board review for yesterday's session.
last weekend swell? does anyone remember? the last two times i've surfed (barring my south afirca trip) i had to take off work. nature hates ppl w/ jobs.
Idk where you surfed but i was out from 4-530 after school and barrels were really nice. some of them got really heavy too i was surprised
Yea... crazy that there were still some jaacking peaks at 4pm. Nobody expected that. My last wave of the day sucked up on the drop and was overhead trough to pitching lip. Kicked my a$$. Ha! Most of the waves by then were waist to chest high, but there was a groundswell pulse that was holding up shoulder to head high set waves every once in a while. That, and the low-to-incoming tide produced some overachieving nuggets for sure.
yea i was just hoping for like waist high max but pulled up and it was chest to head i paddle out and saw some really big barrels i was pumped i got killed by one it i tried tucking in through a peak section it just dumped on me pretty heavy
