LMFAO REALLY!!??!? How many other people hate hearing people say this!?! N What do yall think about the people that say it? Every time i hear it i think they are not true surfers!! Orrr is that just me!?!
i may not exactly follow what you are asking. But, I think you mean that many surfers say they only like it when it's chest high or bigger... Well, I try to surf anything anytime anywhere - even small waves can be fun. I have never turned down a session of waist high waves. LMFAO - what does this mean? LookMamaFishAllOver?
at least chest???...wow. In the winter..... I'll admit I won't suit up unless it's at least waist. Hate if you want. At least I am not claiming chest. In the summer or on a surf trip anything goes as I'm just trying to get wet. But, I don't see the point of suiting up for anything less then waist in the winter.
one of my friends says that all the time and he always backs out of sessions because of it and misses out on all the fun. small days are fun too i take anything and everything i can get even in the winter
I know a few old dudes that only surf 3 or 4 times a year, when its really good (chest-head+ and glassy). Usually see 'em out in sept / oct if ever. I dont have the discipline. Im like a crack head plotting on his next rock. "well, its only a little onshore.." "looks decent..." "its not THAT cold..."
It's just you. The first few years I went out I would charge any swell all year long. Now that I'm better I just don't have any desire to go out in the cold and charge some garbage conditions. I'll go out in waist high and clean any day, but waist or chest high and onshore? You can have that all to yourself brohdie. I used to say the same thing though. I used to think I was hardcore because I charged any and every thing. Now I realize I was just an arrogant young man. To each his own though.
my 10 cents... "if it aint setting the car alarms off, i aint going out..." "honestly," when you get older you will realize that what you once thought was your priority (surfing small waves) changes. i would rather run, or cycle, or swim, or paddle, or play with my dog then grovel in crap surf. It's not the size that good surfers are looking for either. Swell direction + winds + tides + sandbars + weather + moons etc. These are what I look into rather then the size. If your from Delmarva you will know what I mean when I say "I aint surfing waist High North Side." But waist High at another beach down the road can be killer. some sandbars in oc can "pull and draw" energy into longer lines. again, not the size that attracts me or not but it's "how the wave is breaking." this can only come from years and years of surfing and travels. after a good surf trip it is hard to throw your self back into freezing-cold-water that is breaking fickle and waist high.
I think it kind of depends on your situation If your in my boat and only work at night, have the whole day to yourself why not paddle out. not **** else to do anyway. idk maybe im just super young and arrogant
Its not the size its quality for me. I will go out in anything from knee high to OH but if its super sloppy and unorganized I wont waist my time. In my younger days I woulnt think twice about not going out. Now I sit there and see ppl you when it super choppy getting the snot pounded out of them of doing more paddleing to stay in position then surfing well then just dont see like fun to me
I will paddle out in everything unless it's so big I feel like I'm in danger. If I'm alone it has to be clean, if friends are suiting up and it's crap I usually can't resist I go out. Knee High or Head high I will surf and hate when I hear it was fun and I missed it. Most of my old friends (I'm 45) don't surf more than 4 times a year so I have to hang with mostly younger guys. I had a friend who tried to learn to surf one summer back in the early eighties. While we were at a party one time I overheard him telling some girl that "It's not even worth if it's not at least 10 foot" . I always loved that .
I try to go out anytime there's something rideable out there. In the winter it has to be over knee high and clean to get me out but when it's warm I'll go out for anything that I can get a turn in on. I haven't been surfing for that long so small waves are still fun for me, I can try and learn new stuff in any size so I just paddle out and try to learn something new. Better than sitting at home...
