The best part of surfing

My favorite is getting super deep in the barrel and just see the little whole of light and doing all you can to get out but even if you dont make it it just makes me wanna go get another one and make it out

Least favorite is getting over stoked about a perfect wave then messing off the take off and ruining a perfect line, barrel, or air section

 

best part of surfing, is being in the moment and leaving everything else behind. There is nothing that gets me more in the moment like being in the ocean. And, of course getting spit out of a giant barrel

 

i like the pump. that moment when all you're focused on is making the section. the mind clear of everything else in the world.

 

1. When your inside a barrel and instead of looking down the line, you look up at lip. Its pretty effin beautiful to watch the spot where the top of the wave face is turing into the lip.

2. Setting up for a really vert hit with a really big bottom turn.

3. When your jamming your arm in the wave and stalling as much as you can, knowing your about to get barreled.

4. Just big juicy hatty barrels in general.

5. Hitting up a dawn patrol, and your first glimpse of the ocean is offshore perfection.

6. And call me crazy... But if its a bigger fun day, and your buddy drops in on you (a playful drop in)... It can be really fun surfing the wave together.

 

this thread makes me want to go shred some bombs sooo bad

 

Every one of these is the best thing about surfing!

For me I love paddling out on a nice calm, peaceful morning. Getting out the back and just sitting there for a minute watching the sunrise and taking it all in. Just letting the moment clear my mind of everything else in the world...

As for actual wave riding I have to say when that one rogue set comes in that youre out of position for and you spin around real quick and scramble towards the peak. You scratch your way into it and somehow make the late drop, set your rail and head down the line. It all happens so fast your mind doesnt think you just react naturally in the moment I love it.

 

my favorite things to surfing are as follows
1) paddling out on a nice warm summer morning on a longboard with the sun rising most beautiful thing.
2)would have to be setting the wave up for that perfect off the lip bash with the summer kooks and crowd on the beach watching.
3)would have to be the paddle back out after an amazing ride and all the surfers saying "good wave" or "nice ride" since i am high up in the pecking order at my spot i get most of the set waves, no matter what board im riding.
4)would have to be still surfing with the sun setting behind the houses on the beach and the sun just setting with the light hitting the spray most beautiful thing out there.

 

being alone with just your thoughts. the way it clears my head and connects me to nature has got to be my favorite feeling in the world. The way nothing else matters except the next wave coming in...

 

Watching the sun rise over the atlantic is a pretty cool view. I cant wait to be watching the sunsets over the pacific though. much nicer!!


62 days!

 

I had the pleasure of talking with a 80 ++ year old surfer @ Northside who hauls his 1960 vintage longboard on a cart to the beach. What a treat, wearing board shorts and QS skin top explaining he can't stand up anymore but enjoys the "Surfer High" just paddling around catching some white water. You had to admire him at his age still out there for some "stoke" that keeps us coming back for more

 

What lee said x2.

Also, on a sizable sunny day with hard offshores seeing drops of water blow off the lip and hit the sunlight making rainbows everywhere.

And feeling the power of the ocean letting you know your place every once in a while and knock you down a peg.