Question: When you paddle out, lets say on a decent sized day that you know is not going to be the easiest of tasks, do you start off from the beach and paddle as hard as you can to get beyond the breakers or do you casually paddle (reserving energy) until you get to the impact zone then go hard? Just wondering
Wait for some kind of lull, but that doesnt happen.. Try to go casually and reserve energy. You want to duck dive the white wash if possible and not have the lip go on your head. Or paddle in the face of the wave and go into it like a ghost.
I don't paddle as hard as I can, but I don't casually stroll to the impact zone either. I try and time the sets as best as I can, and once I go, pretty much hustle the whole way out. I try and leave a little extra gas in the tank so if I have to, I can sprint paddle a wave or a set as I get to the impact zone if I have to.
Thanks for the replies! I guess I do both ways sometimes, but I am just trying to get a feel on what other people do and their thoughts on the matter. Let's say its a decent sized short period windswell where there is minimal lulls between sets.
Wait for a lull between sets then paddle your a$$ off. No, wait a minuite, buy one of these instead. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn0eSz2kRe8
usually the 2nd for me. i suck at getting out cause my duck dives suffer lol. but even then, thats not what i do. i always ride a jetty's eddy out and/or walk it most of the way. if no eddy, i walk the jetty anyways and then push it hard for the rest of the way. my spots almost always 1)have a really short paddle out or 2)jetty express ride
Im usually like a tweaking crack head by the time I get to the water. I dive over the shore break and scrap until im there. Something important to remember about paddling (like boating), is momentum. I try to come into the impact zone with as much momentum as possible- deeper duck dives and you spend less time inside. Simple physics, DAWG. Watch kelly paddle, that video of him freesurfing in Rio before the contest is a great example, he is doing windmills out there.
I usually go to about chest deep...I'm pretty tall a t 6'3, and then wait for the lull and haul it out there. Most people I see instantly start paddleing as soon as their fins can't touch the sand which does not work for me. If you have a jetty use it. It's like a free ride. if the current is moving pretty fast, paddle as fast as you can and you'll be moving at 5-10 mph.
LOL...What a kook machine! Defeats the physical and spiritual aspect of surfing! Couldn't you just see someone getting dragged along by this thing if it doesn't cut off after wiping out. I guess those with disabilities or lifeguards it might be a good thing, but anyone else using this should get dropped in on.
ive learned with duck dives is you gotta have alot of momentum. also being a little heavy helps. as when i first started surfing on shortboards and having to duckdive i couldnt get as deep since i weighed so little. but as i got older and started lifting and building muscle im able to duckdive pretty deep. also pushup help to from what ive figured out.
I paddle threw it when I am on the log usally but if I get caught inside and nobody is around I turtle roll
I've found that when duckdiving, you need to do it within 1-5 feet of the whitewash/lip. anything futher than that and you get Momma Ocean crackin' your nogan
ditto.....I do get super frustrated on days when I really give it everything and still can't get past the break zone. At that point I'm not even having fun, but it's like I gotta prove to myself that I can get out there.....Choppy days suck when you have one ride in, and a 20-25 minute paddle out just to get to the lineup again.
I just check if there is anybody behind me and I ditch. No biggie I don't care if looks stupid or if it's "kookish"
yeah great. except its not about how you "look" in that anyone who sees you do that will think of you as a complete donkey (which they will) and won't give you a fist pound and bro-down with you in the parking lot -- its about developing bad habits and relying on shortcuts that will lead you into trouble someday. Not to mention using your equipment wrongly. You may not care how that it looks stupid, but you will care b/c anyone who sees you do that will completely disregard you in any real lineup. Also when your leash gets over-stressed and eventually snaps, you with your weak swimming ability will be out there in the lineup on a big day, completely panicked and of course someone will save your ass, will you feel "kookish" then?
I swam for 4 years, I'll be ok without a board. "Bro-down" with me parking lot? Because I ditched my board? Stop being a beta phaggot
Over some dude that dude that told me people will bro down because I ditch my board? Nah nah nah nah nah nah
