There is a book called "Crazy for the Storm", that isn't really a surf book, but is about a boy growing up with his father in surf culture/lifestyle. It is a real life drama that is a really good read.
for those of us who enjoy surfing in the Winter.. try "Cold Water Souls" http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Water-Souls-Surfings-Footprint/dp/1906098751/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307674221&sr=8-1
Surfers Code Shaun Tomson (Easy read, but cool stories and some lessons to be learned) Force of Nature by Laird Hamilton
I second The Wave. Its a great book. Very interesting and not somply a suring book, more of a book about waves. Kook started off okay but got old quick.. too much about him and he girlfriend. I did not finish it though. I could not put The Wave down
I third The Wave!! Laird and friends and a whole lot more. Zero's a fun read, best of the 3 that Weissbecker wrote. Would make a good movie if the Issues could get resolved.