You are learning the same way anyone over 35 yrs old learned. stay in the whitewater(and out of the way) and keep at it. one day (soon )you'll paddle out to the lineup in knee to waist high waves and probably get worked by a few of them too. you'll know what you can handle and what you can't. When you first start getting pounded is what it's about and as long as you make it back to the beach you'll have a good story to tell and laugh about. when I see dudes like you I try to give them a word or two(if they'll take it)to boost them up a little bit and some help in the water. Just realize Jeter didn't start w/ the Yankees, Eli didn't start w/the Giants. No one starts in the Pro's. Take your time and realize your still in little league so to speak
Anyone else feel like they are seeing too much "ditch the board and dive for the bottom" do that with someone behind you and if you do or don't get worked by the wave, the guy behind you would be well within his rights to give you the beating you didn't get from the wave. Learn to duckdive or at least be man enough to take the beating if your in a spot w/ people around. at the very least before you "ditch it and dive" make sure there is no one behind you and you can get your board back before the next wave/set or you are going to endanger other people and find yourself not welcome at certain places
I'm 46 and live 3 hours inland and I'm trying to learn how to surf myself. I only get to the beach a few times a year so I try and make it count. I still have a ways to go, but I found some teaching videos from a surf camp down in Costa Rica that helped me a lot. They have subjects from proper stance to the how tides change the shape of a wave. You can watch them on their site or download them for free on itunes. I learned a lot from these videos and they are a good reference when you are trying to figure out what you are doing wrong after a session. http://www.surfsimply.com/podcast/
Dude.....that's a great link! Ends up I'm a level 3 surfer (whatever that means), and just got the info I need to break into level 4 (whatever that means too). Thank you much.
Originally Posted by Nedcakes