Wrightsville beach was amazing today
Folly was pumping Thursday through sat with some fun waist to chest clean leftovers today. Clean to mostly clean the whole time. Sat was insane all day---the whole east side was barreling ...broken boards, beach erosion, broken faces, etc. Best swell here in a long time!
the f!ck. These cops keep asking me to leave.
I'm not going.
cool article from ESPN (yea yea, ESPN)
When people see a surfer, they should kneel in front of our pews, not charge us 500.00. It's us, the surfers, who should take up the collection. They're trying to exploit us. Man, we need some surfer-judges up and down the east coast to tear up those tickets. Noone should be punished because there's a raging (super-fun) storm on the ocean. 500.00 is killer.
The waves were sick yesterday and today here in Fernandina Beach, FL. Heres a video from yesterday. Today was just as big but way cleaner with light offshores. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kkj-0cZwDZw
Not bad - spittin' barrels on the spit! Good music, good videography. Good surfer.