But yeah, all in all its some ol' tough guy sh**. But leash dragging is a big factor. Its really is no matter the size of the day, and the kelp thing is INSANE. I mean, Ive felt like I was going to drown before getting caught up in the kelp forest because of my leash... It does happen... Not to mention on bigger days, there is nothing worse than getting up on a nice fast as$ big face, and stepping right on your leash, or getting it tangled up between your toes... I can't tell you how many times i have had to pull the old karate kid kic move where you stand on one foot for a split second to get your leash out from under you... it must be pretty funny from the beach. My wife has asked me a couple times, WTF was that you were doing on one leg?
On a side note. I was just complaining about crap leashes that break all the time. I was surfing in front of my restaurant two weeks ago. It was, no joke, like ankle - knee high. I had my longest board out, which is about 8'0. I hopped off a tiny wave and the leash blew out on me. I mean, there was barely enough power to even push the board to begin with. That P.O.S. snapped right in half... Damn leashes. But since then, I have been surfing every day out there with no leash. Crowds everywhere, but no one has said anything to me. Last week, we had a 4 foot day, it was SUPER drifty, wind chopped all to hell. Guards were out rescuing kids. I was the only person out surfing, but I made it about 2 hours, and about 25-30 waves and never lost the board once. I popped over the back once and had to swim over to it... but I for sure thought I would be taking a few swims into the beach but it never happened. Fun day. Ended up 2 miles north when I got out of the water though.
I still don't understand the hatred of leashes. It reminds me of the people who hate seat belts in cars. However, with a leash you are protecting others around you. I guess if you are the only one out, it is ok. But that sounds pretty rare, from all the b1tching about crowds on here.
9 out of 10 times the leashless person is riding some retro ****-turd that is only capable of trimming and floating across foamy sections, you shouldn't be falling....and the final 1 out of 10 is hucking throw away revos on the close-out.
Granted, the "waves" still completely sucked tonight but at least I was getting takeoffs when a wave would break with the onshores and in nine or ten rides in the hour, I didn't slip or fall off the board once. I felt my foot placement was even more diligent during the pop-up. I liked the overall feel a ton as well as the constant accountability for the board.
It was pretty crowded out there with all other LBs (I was on the retro fish) but I was definitely the safest with my board as it never left my feet, chest or hands the whole time. Speaking of responsibility, two of the riders out there nearly took my head off when I saw them drop in and stayed way out past the flats to let them get their ride. Even though the rides were weak, these guys still could've got down the line but they went towards the beach instead. These were slow rides where they had a long ass time to see where I was and where they were headed. One of the two guys came within a foot of my board and head as I stood there. I let him know that was not the way to go at all.
At any rate, no leash feels pure and liberating.