I like the angled approach, but I also ride a fun shape. If I try to drop straight in, I don't seem to have enough speed to make it without tumbling. I paddle hard at a slight angle and drop slightly sideways down the face.
bottom turn, bottom turn, bottom turn all the other advice is great, but after 38 yrs of surfing, bottom turns. watch guys at pipeline, it's hard to get a take off steeper than that.
more than anything it's committment. You can pop up as quick as you want but if you are not committed your are going to get worked. Hesitate and your doomed
you get on a sponge like me and airdrop straight into the barrel and crush your balls on impact
Exactly! The steeper the better on the sponge.
learn to read the wave correctly and get the right type of board...or just go to Long Island where they get more of a sideshore breeze that tends to feathers the wave a little
It's all about the "bodyboard take off". Don't paddle like you would with a longboard. Get in the spot - usually the peak. The shoulder looks appealing but won't give you power/speed you need to get ahead of the section and be in charge. Right as the wave approaches, paddle extremely hard and throw your weight forward as you start to get up. Keep pressure at the front of the board or rails with your hands. This allows the board to keep going down the face without you having to pop up super quick.
Backside is good for angle takeoffs but frontside is all about the bottom turn.
Can't be afraid. Go to s-turns and learn the hard way
This thread is over two years old. I hope the OP learned by now.:)