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smaller than advertized but waist/stomach swell. Good amount of ppl already in the water at dawn patrol. Wasn't too bad on one side of 13th E, so...
I'd like to see pics of Bermuda getting the goods
pumping short sec swell out there. Waters were real murky, def sumtin getting pushed onto our shores. Started raining not too long while i was out...
i'd be questioning the water in China. Not as bad as say India, but prolly some sht in there you wouldn't know was in there
Went at hi noon Saturday to Washout. One of the busiest days I've seen it. They ahve the Guv'ners cup going on, but it was booked a couple blocks...
haha, yea Folly isn't expecting any waves this wknd. haha. In all seriousness, i feel like i'm due for another FL trip. Maybe i'll squeeze in a...
I got in a couple evenings ago. It was longboardable, went N Washout. Good to be around some local guys, usually the older guys are out there and...
The guy who sold it to me came by around 4th of July to put another solenoid on it. Then found out that "wasn't" the only problem. Something about...
work sux. 1500 emails, i underestimated the shyttyness. Bout San Diego, we stopped at Swami's first after leaving Costa Mesa. Didn't see it firing...
while my inbox is loading the 1000 emails since i've been on vaca, i'll report on the So Cali mission. Stayed up in Costa Mesa for a few days,...
we did have another run at it. Same as yesterday,less ppl in the water this time. This should be last sess before cali. Should also be my last...
yea, i was also surprised how swell managed to creep into waist hi status yesterday. Biked all the way to washout, was worthy. Guys on shortys sat...
Think it was thurs when a buddy reached out to me to check on if waves would clean up evening after elsa pushed thru. I had surfed 3-4 days prior,...
you can't smoke anything on the beach here on folly anymore. No cigars, not even a vape pen which i find pretty amusing. I haven't been looking...
that 4th swell was amazing. Waist hi long lines. Went to 3rd W on Folly to surf with several of the folly gals early. It was pretty much a...
we have had a decent run at it in the past week as well. I did a 3 sess Saturday evening, tried a friend's Peli 7'2" squash tail, twin fin. Most...
dam good swell this morning. nice chest hi rollers, some did break soft. Rip to the dome this morning as i rushed outta the house messed with me...
fruit
TS claudette's form showed up this morning. Gale winds and lightning, thunder passed thru last night. It looked better than what it was. You could...
i'm down for olympics. Something to watch on tv here and there. I never preferred summer vs the winter, both offer sumtin. Now i don't plan my day...