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it is and it isn't. ive like entered zen stoke mode. Border-lining on being jaded, but still humble and thankful for every wave. I walked away...
Ive surfed everyday since january 6th except a total of 3 off days for r and r. I think thats well over 20 days in a row, which might have broken...
central pavones. north not telling
lol this thread makes me wanna get another beer
I think its every surfers personal responsibility to drink and smoke as much as possible. I surf for 5 to eight hours a day. Think that would be...
for the record thats not me in the shot, this is a shot my friend found of a spot near some spots i surfed this weekend. Still, it highlights the...
nice dude the $200 pretty much new board with all the trimmings is always a score! managed to get me a new 6'6 for the winter for that price, just...
you should read "something happened" by the same author also, smoke dope instead of drinking. I only turn into an alcoholic when its fire season...
overhead and clean once more. Trip up north was alright: [ATTACH]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cusco wrong both are acceptable and Cusco is the standard, although CUZ is still used for the airport.
As far as working out goes, anything other than : -surfing 8 hour days in overhead surf, -fighting wildfires, -sleeping in your car in the rain...
post of the year
i found a one way out of crescent city to cusco (hour drive from me with free long term airport parking) for $570. almost wanna pull the trigger
wanna be weathermen. if the panthers got ****ed in the 60's these pussies will get raped in federal prison
So i got about 5 grand to my name, owe a few months rent to the landlord, got 4 months till fire season and have to meet my girlfriend in Cusco...
nevermind
no photos allowed at the good waves. Heres the view at the end of my street when the points and reefs were going off double overhead barrels....
9 days i logged a tube bigger then me. Sessions ranged from 2-8 hours averaging around five. My arms are past the point of noodles and after the...
number eight. going for number 9 tomorrow. the reefs and points have been throwing I feel like im back on the north shore.
Seventh straight day i got a standup barrel with more to come. Good to be back on the best coast.